The ladder stitch is the hand stitch that closes a seam so you cannot see it. You use it to shut the turning gap on a pillow, close up a stuffed toy, finish a lined bag or mend a split seam. It also goes by the invisible stitch and the slip stitch. In this tutorial the maker behind smarmyclothes and What The Craft closes a small pillow with black thread so every stitch shows, then shows how it nearly disappears in matching thread.
How to sew a ladder stitch: the short version
- Press both seam allowances so you have two crisp folded edges.
- Mark the fold lines, and mark quarter inch spacing if you want help.
- Bring a knotted thread up from inside at one end of the gap.
- Cross straight over, take a small stitch along the opposite fold, cross back, repeat.
- Pull the thread tight every few stitches, then knot and bury the tail.
Why it disappears
Every stitch runs inside the fold, along the line where the fabric would have been machine sewn. The only thread that crosses the gap is the short rung between the two folds. When you pull it tight, the folds meet and the rungs vanish into the seam. That is also why it is called a ladder: before you pull, the rungs look like the steps of a ladder lying on its side.
The two rules
Keep every stitch on the fold line, and keep the stitches even and parallel. Wander off the line and the seam puckers. Let the rungs slant and the fabric twists. The marking tricks here exist to make both rules easy.
Thread and needle
Match the thread to the fabric. Contrast thread is only for learning. A fine, sharp hand sewing needle slips through the fold without leaving holes. All-purpose polyester thread is strong enough for stuffed toys and pillows. Run it over a bit of beeswax if it tangles.
Stitch length
A quarter inch is about as long as you want to go. Smaller is less visible, so drop to 3/16 or 1/8 inch where the seam meets machine stitching or on fine fabric. Bigger stitches are faster, but they let the gap gape between rungs.
A shortcut for spacing
Marking every notch with a ruler works, but it is slow. Try this instead: draw quarter inch marks on the side of your finger with a fine-tip marker. Hold your finger along the seam and use the marks as a guide for each stitch.
Common problems
- Thread shows. A stitch strayed off the fold. Pull it out and redo that stretch.
- Puckers. The stitches were uneven or pulled too hard. Ease them out along the seam with your fingers.
- A bump at the end. The knot was tied too tight. A press with steam usually flattens it.
Where to use it next
Close the gap on a pillowcase or a lined drawstring bag. Pair it with the backstitch for strong hand seams, keep your clothes going with how to sew a button by hand, or tidy a hem in how to hem pants at home.
