How to Sew a Hole or Tear in Jeans by Hand

The finished result: How to Sew a Hole or Tear in Jeans by Hand
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • About 30 minutes
  • 9 steps

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Steps written out by Crafting Step by Step from Rokolee DIY's video (opens YouTube) (8:21). Published .

A slit tear on the thigh of a pair of jeans, closed by hand with a needle, thread and a scrap of woven fabric. No machine, no iron-on kit. The finished seam is a line of small stitches that fades into dark denim, and the patch on the inside holds it so it does not rip open again.

The method comes from Rokolee DIY on YouTube, filmed straight down over the jeans on a table so you can see every stitch go in. The whole thing is one stitch, the whip stitch, done three times along the same line. What makes it hold is the backing patch: the stitches bite into the patch as well as the denim, so the load sits on fresh fabric instead of the worn edges of the tear.

Hole or tear, same repair

The creator works on a tear, a clean slit about the length of a thumb. A small hole with a bit missing repairs the same way. Trim the frayed edges, back it with the patch, and whip stitch across the gap so the edges pull together over the patch. If the hole is wider than a fingertip the stitches will gather the denim, so leave the patch showing and stitch around the edge of the hole onto the patch instead of pulling it closed.

Where it goes wrong

The needle goes through both layers. Hold the jeans with a hand inside so you can feel the point. If it pokes through the back of the leg, you have sewn the front of the jeans to the back.

The seam puckers at the ends. That is normal. Add two or three extra stitches at each end and the second pass flattens it.

The stitches pull out. They were placed in the frayed edge. Go a few threads further in, into the sound denim.

More hand mending

For a knit sock the same idea uses a weave instead of a patch, in how to darn a sock. If the hole is too big to close, cover it from the outside with a sewn-on patch. For the basics under all of these, start with how to sew, and if the zip is the part that has failed, how to sew a zipper covers that.

Knitwear needs its own method, because a woven patch pulls out of stretchy fabric. How to fix a hole in a sweater covers that case.

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Quick answer

Sew a hole or tear in jeans closed by hand in 9 steps: trim the frayed edges, slip a woven patch inside, whip stitch the edges together, tie off and trim. An easy project: about 30 minutes. Materials cost about $3 to $6. You need 9 things, including Iron-on fabric adhesive, Hand sewing needle and Fabric scissors. The 9 steps start with trim the Frayed Threads Around the Tear and cut a Woven Backing Patch Bigger Than the Tear.

Step-by-step guide

9 steps, about 8 minutes. Tap a picture to jump to that step. Your progress saves automatically.

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  1. Step 1: Trim the Frayed Threads Around the Tear

    Watch this step · 0:40

    Take a pair of sharp scissors and cut off every loose thread hanging in and around the tear. Pull off any fluff sitting on the surface of the denim too. Anything unravelled has no strength left in it, so it has to go.

    What you are after is two clean edges of denim that meet neatly. Stop there. Do not cut into fabric that is still sound, because the stitches need that firm denim to hold onto later.

    Tip:

    Small embroidery scissors get into the tear better than big shears. Tweezers help with the fluff.

    Back to all steps

  2. Step 2: Cut a Woven Backing Patch Bigger Than the Tear

    Watch this step · 1:59

    Find a scrap of sturdy woven fabric. Cotton canvas is what the creator uses. It should be strong and not stretchy, but not so thick that it feels bulky, because it stays inside the jeans against your leg.

    Cut a rectangle that covers the tear with a good margin on every side, about the size of a playing card for a thumb-length slit. Pick a colour close to your jeans. The yellow in the video is only there so the camera can see it.

    Tip:

    An old cotton shirt or pillowcase works if you have no canvas. Avoid anything with stretch in it.

    Back to all steps

  3. Step 3: Slip the Patch Inside the Jeans Behind the Tear

    Watch this step · 2:25

    Push the patch in through the leg opening and work it round to sit behind the tear. Smooth it flat with your fingers from the outside until you can see the patch through the opening and it covers the whole tear with margin all round.

    You can pin it through the denim so it cannot shift. The creator skips the pins, and the patch ends up a little off centre. It still covers the tear, so it still works, but pins make the next steps calmer.

    Tip:

    Check the patch is flat with no fold underneath. A fold gets sewn in and shows as a lump from the outside.

    Back to all steps

  4. Step 4: Cut an Arm Length of Thread, Knot It and Thread the Needle

    Watch this step · 2:54

    Use a polyester thread that matches the jeans. Polyester is strong, and a dark blue vanishes against dark denim. Cut a piece about as long as your arm. That is enough to finish the repair without the thread tangling on every pull.

    Tie a knot in one end. Feed the other end through the eye of a hand sewing needle that will push through denim without bending. A needle threader makes this part quick.

    Tip:

    Wet the thread end and snip it at an angle so it goes through the eye first time.

    Back to all steps

  5. Step 5: Anchor the Thread Through the Patch at One End of the Tear

    Watch this step · 3:28

    Hold the jeans with one hand inside the leg, under the patch. That way you feel the needle point and know at once if it goes through to the back of the jeans, which is the one thing you never want.

    Take the needle in and out of the patch alone, then bring it up through the denim at one end of the tear. The knot ends up hidden on the inside. Before you pull tight, look once more that the patch still covers the whole tear.

    Tip:

    A thimble on the middle finger of your pushing hand saves the fingertip on denim.

    Back to all steps

  6. Step 6: Whip Stitch the Two Edges Together Over the Patch

    Watch this step · 4:28

    Go down through the denim on one side of the tear, pick up a small bite of the patch underneath, then come up through the denim on the other side. That is one whip stitch. Do it again, and again, all the way along the tear.

    Keep the stitches close together. Closer means stronger. Aim a few threads in from the frayed edge, because the very edge is the weakest denim. And only ever catch the patch, never the fabric at the back of the leg.

    Tip:

    Pull each stitch snug, not tight. Tight stitches gather the denim into a ridge.

    Back to all steps

  7. Step 7: Flatten the Pucker and Whip Stitch Back Over the Seam

    Watch this step · 5:42

    At the far end there will be a small pucker where the denim bunches. Put a stitch or two right at the end to flatten it. Then turn around and whip stitch back along the same seam to where you started.

    Two passes is the minimum. The creator does three, and says three or four is best on a thigh or knee that takes strain. Every pass adds more thread over the top of the join, so the repair gets stronger and lies flatter at the same time.

    Tip:

    Angle the second pass the opposite way so the stitches cross. The X pattern spreads the load.

    Back to all steps

  8. Step 8: Turn the Jeans Inside Out and Tie Off With Two Loop Knots

    Watch this step · 6:44

    Push the needle into the denim so the point sits on the inside and the needle is parked. Turn the jeans inside out. Bring the needle up through the denim and the patch at the end of the repair.

    Take a small stitch through the patch and pull until only a small loop is left. Pass the needle through that loop and pull tight. Do the same once more. Two of these loop knots hold. Then snip the thread close to the knot.

    Tip:

    Make the loop knots through the patch, not the denim, so nothing shows on the outside.

    Back to all steps

  9. Step 9: Trim the Patch to One Centimetre and Press the Repair

    Watch this step · 7:23

    With fabric scissors, cut away the spare patch. Leave about one centimetre of fabric all the way around the stitching. Less than that and the edge may fray back to the stitches over time.

    Turn the jeans right side out and press the repair from the front and the back with an iron. If the patch edge rubs against your skin, tack it down with a little iron-on fabric adhesive so it lies flat against the denim.

    Tip:

    Trim the patch corners round rather than square. Rounded edges catch less and fray less.

    Back to all steps

How to Fix a Hole in a Sweater

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How to Sew a Hole or Tear in Jeans by Hand

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Question 1 of 5

Why trim the frayed threads before you start?

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Key takeaways from How to Sew a Hole or Tear in Jeans by Hand

5 questions, answers, and one-line explanations. Tap to expand.

  1. 1.Why trim the frayed threads before you start?

    Answer: Anything unravelled has no strength left

    You want two clean edges of sound denim to stitch together.

  2. 2.What should the backing patch be made of?

    Answer: Sturdy woven fabric such as cotton canvas

    Strong and not stretchy, but thin enough not to feel bulky against your leg.

  3. 3.Why keep one hand inside the leg as you stitch?

    Answer: To feel if the needle comes through the back

    Sewing the front of the jeans to the back is the one thing you never want.

  4. 4.How many passes of whip stitch does the repair need?

    Answer: Two at minimum, and three is better

    Two passes is the floor, and the creator does three for a repair that holds.

  5. 5.How much backing patch should be left after trimming?

    Answer: About one centimetre all round

    Less than a centimetre and the edge can fray back to the stitches.

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