How to Use a Walking Foot

  • 10 steps
  • 8:49 video
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • About 15 minutes
  • Quilting

Based on a video by Charmed By Ashley

Opens their YouTube channel

Steps written out by Crafting Step by Step · Published

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The finished result: How to Use a Walking Foot
Also in:Sewing

A walking foot looks like the most complicated thing in your sewing kit. It is a presser foot with its own set of feed dogs, so it grips the top layer of fabric while the machine's feed dogs grip the bottom. Ashley from Charmed By Ashley shows how to put one on, what it does, and how to use the guide bar that comes with it for straight, evenly spaced quilting lines.

She avoided hers for years. Then she used it on her daughter's quilt and wished she had started sooner.

What a walking foot does

A regular presser foot only holds the fabric down. The feed dogs under the needle plate pull the bottom layer through, and the top layer can lag behind and shift. A walking foot adds a second set of feed teeth on top, driven by the arm that sits on the needle clamp. Both layers move together, step by step, which is where the name comes from.

When to use a walking foot

  • Straight line quilting through a quilt sandwich of top, batting and backing.
  • Sewing binding onto a quilt.
  • Slippery fabrics like satin, rayon or lining.
  • Thick or stretchy fabrics: fleece, minky, knits and vinyl.
  • Matching stripes and plaids across a seam.
  • Many layers at once, like the card slots of a fabric wallet.

If a project ever puckered or ended with the top layer longer than the bottom, try it again with a walking foot.

When not to use one

A walking foot is made for straight stitching and gentle curves. It does not suit free motion quilting, where you move the quilt in any direction; that needs a darning or free motion foot with the feed dogs lowered. Most walking feet do not sew in reverse well, so lock stitches by sewing a few very short stitches instead.

Buying the right walking foot

Walking feet are made for low shank, high shank and slant shank machines, and some brands sell their own. Check your manual for the shank type before you buy. Many machines include one in the box. The attachment that looks like a bent wire is the quilting guide, not a spare part.

Tips for smooth sewing

Lengthen the stitch a little, to about 3 mm, when quilting through batting. Sew at a steady, moderate speed. A walking foot is a bit noisier than a regular foot, and that is normal. Let it feed the fabric and keep your hands flat on either side to guide, not push or pull. Baste the layers well with safety pins or spray first; the foot helps, but it cannot fix loose layers.

Troubleshooting

  • The top teeth do not move: the arm is not sitting on the needle clamp screw. Refit it.
  • The needle hits the foot: the foot is not centred or the screw is loose. Turn the handwheel by hand to check before sewing.
  • Puckers still form on the back: baste with more pins and quilt from the center out.
  • The fabric will not start feeding: lift the foot higher and push the edge right under the front of the teeth.

Ready to quilt? Seehow to baste a quilt and how to machine quilt, then finish with how to bind a quilt. For curved, all-over designs, try free motion quilting.

What you'll need

Step-by-step guide

10 steps, about 9 minutes. Tap a picture to jump to that step. Your progress saves automatically.

Tick each step off as you go.

  1. Step 1: Get to Know the Parts of a Walking Foot

    Watch this step · 0:24

    Hold the walking foot and look at it before you fit it. The white housing holds the top feed teeth, which you can see under the foot. The lever arm on the side rides on your needle clamp; every time the needle goes up and down, the arm moves those teeth. The bent metal bar in the box is the quilting guide. Every walking foot looks a little different, so check your manual.

    Tip:

    Keep the guide bar with the foot. It is easy to lose and handy later.

    Back to all steps

  2. Step 2: Remove the Regular Presser Foot and Holder

    Watch this step · 1:16

    Raise the needle to its highest position and lift the presser foot lever. A walking foot replaces the whole foot holder, not only the snap-on foot. Take your screwdriver and loosen the screw on the side of the presser bar to remove the holder. Ashley keeps the holder and screw together so neither goes missing, since that is the foot she uses most.

    Tip:

    Turn the machine off before changing feet so it cannot start by accident.

    Back to all steps

  3. Step 3: Line Up the Walking Foot Under the Presser Bar

    Watch this step · 2:06

    Bring the walking foot in under the needle. The slot on the foot goes around the presser bar screw, and the arm needs to sit over the needle clamp. It is a little fiddly. Loosen the presser bar screw a bit more if you need room. Ashley calls this the finicky part, so take your time rather than forcing it.

    Tip:

    Lower the feed dogs or lay a scrap of paper on the plate so small parts cannot drop in.

    Back to all steps

  4. Step 4: Hook the Walking Foot Arm Over the Needle Clamp

    Watch this step · 2:46

    Lift the lever arm and slide the foot onto the presser bar at the same time, so the arm straddles the needle clamp screw. The needle clamp moves up and down with the needle; that motion is what drives the top feed dogs. If the arm is not on the clamp, the foot will not walk. Check both points before you tighten.

    Tip:

    Look at the machine from the side. It is easier to see the arm and clamp line up.

    Back to all steps

  5. Step 5: Tighten the Walking Foot Shank Screw

    Watch this step · 3:04

    Hold the walking foot in place and tighten the presser bar screw with your screwdriver. Lower the presser foot and give the screw another small turn so it is snug. A loose screw lets the foot wobble, and the needle could strike it. Turn the handwheel toward you once to make sure the needle passes cleanly through the opening.

    Tip:

    Always test with the handwheel first, never the foot pedal.

    Back to all steps

  6. Step 6: Check the Installed Walking Foot

    Watch this step · 3:42

    Lower the foot onto the needle plate and look underneath. You should see the walking foot's own teeth sitting over the machine's feed dogs. Now you have two sets pulling the fabric together. Lift the presser foot a little higher than usual when you slide fabric under, because those top teeth can catch the edge.

    Tip:

    Many machines have an extra-high lift position on the presser foot lever. Use it here.

    Back to all steps

  7. Step 7: Sew Quilt Layers With the Walking Foot

    Watch this step · 5:48

    Ashley tests it on a small quilt sandwich: a top, batting and backing held with safety pins. Slide it under the raised foot, lower the foot and start sewing at a steady speed. Watch the top teeth move with the needle. Even with pins, layers can shift under a regular foot. With a walking foot they stay together.

    Tip:

    The foot is a little noisy and may squeak. That is normal.

    Back to all steps

  8. Step 8: Attach the Walking Foot Quilting Guide Bar

    Watch this step · 6:30

    The guide bar slides into a hole at the back of the walking foot, on either side. Push it in and set the bent tip at the distance you want between quilting lines. For lines one inch apart, measure one inch from the needle to the tip of the guide. Tighten it if your foot has a set screw.

    Tip:

    Measure from the needle, not the edge of the foot, so the spacing is true.

    Back to all steps

  9. Step 9: Sew Parallel Lines Along the Walking Foot Guide

    Watch this step · 7:04

    Move the fabric over until the tip of the guide bar sits on your first stitched line. Sew, keeping the guide on that line the whole way. Keep your eyes on the guide, not the needle. Each new line follows the one before, so you can cover a whole quilt in evenly spaced rows with no marking at all.

    Tip:

    Keep your hands flat beside the foot. Guide the fabric; do not push it.

    Back to all steps

  10. Step 10: Check the Evenly Spaced Walking Foot Quilting Lines

    Watch this step · 7:36

    Lift the foot, pull the fabric out and look at your lines. They should run parallel, with the same gap from top to bottom. Ashley shows two lines that match. Snip the threads with small scissors, or bury the tails between the layers with a needle so they cannot work loose on a finished quilt.

    Tip:

    Burying thread tails takes a minute and keeps lines from unravelling in the wash.

    Back to all steps

Keep going

How to Make a Quilt Backing

10 steps · about 17 minutes

Products Used

The Checklist

How to Use a Walking Foot

Tools
5
Materials
5
Steps
10
Video
9 min

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