Sashiko is a Japanese style of hand stitching built from one simple move, the running stitch. It was first used to strengthen and patch worn cloth, which makes it a natural fit for a hole in your favorite jeans. Dyuna Morgan, a Levi's master tailor in New York, backs the hole with a scrap of denim and stitches a white crosshatch grid over it. The repair holds, and it looks good doing it.
How to sew sashiko stitches: the short version
- Cut a denim patch an inch bigger than the hole on every side.
- Pin it behind the hole on the inside of the jeans.
- Chalk a grid over the area.
- Sew running stitches along every vertical line, then every horizontal line.
- Lock the last stitch on the back and trim.
What makes sashiko different from regular hand sewing
The stitches are meant to show. Sashiko thread is thick, soft and matte, so each stitch reads as a little dash on the fabric. The needle is long and sturdy, which lets you load several stitches onto it before you pull through. Traditional work keeps the stitches even, with the top stitch a bit longer than the gap underneath. On a mend, close enough is fine.
Choosing thread and needle
Real sashiko thread is the easy choice. It does not split and it sits up nicely on denim. Six-strand embroidery floss or a size 8 pearl cotton will work in a pinch, though the stitches look thinner. White or cream on blue denim is the classic look. Red, mustard or a soft pink give the mend a playful twist. Pick a needle with an eye big enough that the thread slides through without fraying.
Sizing the patch
Go at least one inch past the hole on all sides. Denim tears where it has already thinned, and that worn zone is often wider than the hole itself. A bigger patch means your stitches land on solid fabric. Use a scrap from an old pair of jeans in a similar weight, so the mend moves with the garment.
Patterns to try once you have the basics
- Straight rows. The fastest mend, good for knees and thighs.
- Crosshatch. Rows in both directions, as in the video. Strong and tidy.
- Little crosses. Single X stitches scattered around a hole.
- Waves or seigaiha. Overlapping arches, a traditional sashiko pattern.
Common mistakes
- Pulling the thread tight. The fabric puckers. Let each stitch lie flat.
- Skipping the patch. Stitching over a bare hole gives the thread nothing to hold.
- Sewing through both legs. Slip a piece of card inside the leg first.
- No knot or lock. Finish with a back stitch so the work cannot unravel in the wash.
Keep stitching
The lock at the end is a backstitch, worth learning on its own. Socks wear through too, and darning a sock uses a similar weave of stitches. For more everyday hand repairs, learn to sew a button by hand, and if you want to add a drawn design to a jacket or tote, see how to transfer an embroidery pattern.
