Applique looks intimidating to new quilters. The reality is much simpler: you trace shapes onto fusible web, iron them onto fabric, cut them out, iron them onto your quilt, then sew around the edges. The Heat n Bond does most of the work.
Jenny from Missouri Star Quilt Company demonstrates the technique on a baby quilt with little sailboats. Her version uses a Robert Kaufman jelly roll for the bricks and small fabric scraps for the boats, sails, masts, and stars. Once you've done one shape, you've done them all - the technique scales to any pattern.
The whole process is more relaxing than precise. The blanket stitch at the end can be sewn by machine or by hand, in invisible thread for subtlety or in contrasting thread for a folksy outline. Either way, the applique survives the wash because the fusible web holds it down and the stitching keeps the edges from peeling.
The three ways to applique
This page teaches the fusible method because it is the fastest way to a good result. It is not the only one.
| Method | Speed | Look | Durability and washing |
|---|
| Fusible raw-edge (this page) | Fast | Crisp shapes, stitched outline | Good once the edge is stitched; raw edges soften a little over many washes |
| Needle-turn (by hand) | Slow | Soft, invisible edges | Excellent - edges are turned under, nothing to fray |
| Machine satin or zigzag | Medium | Bold, dense outline | Excellent - the stitch wraps the raw edge completely |
Choosing fusible web
Buy the lite version of any fusible web (Heat n Bond Lite, Wonder Under, Steam-A-Seam 2 Lite) when you plan to sew the edges. The heavy or ultra-hold versions are made for no-sew projects. They glue hard enough that the needle gums up and skips stitches, and the finished quilt feels stiff where the shapes sit.
Trace your shapes reversed
This one catches almost every beginner. You trace on the paper side and fuse that to the back of the fabric, so the shape comes out mirror-image. A star or a circle doesn't care. A letter, a number, or a boat that should face right does.
Flip the template over before you trace, or hold it against a window and trace the back. Many printed applique patterns are already reversed for you - check the pattern notes before you flip anything.
Finishing the edges so they don't fray
A blanket stitch is the classic finish. A narrow zigzag or a satin stitch covers more of the edge and holds up best on things that get washed every week. Keep the stitch width small on tiny pieces, and stop with the needle down on the outside edge to pivot around points and curves. Tightly woven quilting cotton frays far less than loose weaves, so save the linen for bigger shapes.
Where applique works
- Baby and lap quilts, like the sailboats here
- Pillow fronts - a single large shape looks great on a pillowcase
- Kids clothes, to cover a stain or a worn knee
- Tote bags and drawstring bags
- Holiday pieces such as a Christmas stocking
Common applique mistakes
- Forgetting to reverse the template. Your letters read backwards. There is no fix after fusing, so check before you trace.
- Fusible web gummed onto the iron. The glue side touched the soleplate. Always iron paper side up, or use a pressing cloth or teflon sheet.
- Puckering around the shape. Usually a stitch that is too dense or tension that is too tight. A tear-away stabilizer under the quilt top keeps the fabric flat while you sew.
When the top is done, carry on with basting and machine quilting as usual.
