A seed stitch cowl is one of the kindest first projects in knitting. You knit one stitch, purl the next, and repeat that for every row. No shaping, no counting rows, no pattern chart. This version comes from the B.Hooked Knitting channel, run by the designer behind bhooked.com. It is a light, soft loop that sits close at the neck and drapes well under a coat.
How to knit a cowl: what you are making
You knit a long flat rectangle about 8 inches wide and 32 inches long, then sew the two short ends together. Seed stitch looks the same on both sides and lies flat, so the edges do not roll. If the knit and purl stitches are new to you, start with how to knit and purl, and see how to knit seed stitch for a closer look at the stitch.
Yarn weight and needle size
The video uses Sugar Bush Itty Bitty, a super fine (fingering) weight blend of merino, nylon and cashmere, on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles. That is a larger needle than fingering yarn usually gets, and that is the point. The looser fabric gives the soft drape you want in a cowl. Plan on two balls.
Have a different yarn at home? Any fingering or sport weight yarn works on the same needles. For a DK or worsted yarn, go up to US 8 or 9 and cast on fewer stitches. Always use an odd number so every row starts and ends with a knit.
Gauge and sizing
Gauge is how many stitches fit in an inch. For a cowl it barely matters. Knit a few rows, measure the width, and adjust the cast on until it is near 8 inches. A 32 inch loop slips over your head and sits once around the neck. For a cowl that wraps twice, keep knitting to 55 or 60 inches and buy a third ball.
How long it takes
Fine yarn and seed stitch make this a slow, relaxing knit. A beginner should plan on 15 to 20 hours, a good fit for evenings in front of the TV over two or three weeks.
Finishing, blocking and care
Weave in the tails along the seam where they hide. See how to mattress stitch if you want a neater, near invisible seam than the simple whip stitch in the video. To block, soak the cowl in cool water with a little wool wash, press out the water in a towel, and lay it flat to dry. Hand wash it the same way after wearing. Merino and cashmere felt in hot water or a dryer, so skip both unless the label says superwash.
Variations
- Stripes. Change color every 10 or 20 rows, always at the start of a row. How to join yarn shows the method.
- Chunkier. Bulky yarn on US 10 or 11 needles finishes in a weekend.
- A gift. Choose a soft neutral like gray or oatmeal, fold it with tissue, and tuck in the care note.
Prefer a hook? Try how to crochet a cowl.
Troubleshooting
- The cast on edge is tight. Cast on over two needles held together, or go up a needle size for the cast on only.
- The pattern turned into ribbing. You knit a knit. Read the stitch below each one: knit the purl bumps, purl the smooth Vs.
- The edges curl. That is a sign of stockinette sneaking in. Check the last few rows for a missed purl.
- A twisted loop at the seam. Before you sew, lay the rectangle flat and make sure it has no twist. Seed stitch hides a twist better than most, but you will feel it.