How to Make a Mosaic Side Table

The finished result: How to Make a Mosaic Side Table
  • Difficulty: Medium
  • About 1 hour 15 minutes, plus 8 hours to dry or set
  • 7 steps

You tapped Save

Save this project for later

We'll email you a link, no password.

How to Make a Mosaic Side Table

  • Your saved projects in one list
  • Your ticked steps on any device

Check your inbox for an email from us. Not there? Look in your spam folder.

Print

Steps written out by Crafting Step by Step from Lovin' Life's Journey DIY's video (opens YouTube) (17:28). Published .

A three-dollar thrift table with iron legs, a box of broken Mexican Talavera tile, a bottle of Weld Bond and a bag of sanded grout. That is the whole shopping list for the DIY tile side table Chantel builds in this video from Lovin' Life's Journey DIY. It was her first mosaic, and she says so up front. Every snag she hit is one you can skip.

The steps below cover the build. This part is what to decide before you break the first tile: which table, where the tile comes from, glue versus thinset, and what to do about the edge, the hardest question in the whole project.

Pick a flat-top table, then decide about the edge

Almost any small, sturdy table works. What matters is the top: flat, solid, no bubbling veneer. A light sanding takes care of small ridges. Skip anything that wobbles, since grout lines crack when a table flexes.

A top with a raised lip gives you a tray to tile into and hides the outer cut edges. A flat top like Chantel's leaves them exposed. Her fix: paint the rim with ivory chalk paint, stop the tile a quarter inch short of it, and glue Dollar Tree nautical rope into that gap as a border. Wood trim or small square tiles set on edge do the same job.

Tile sources, and how to break tile safely

Thrift-store plates and chipped dishes are the classic source and cost almost nothing. Chantel could not get to a thrift store when she filmed, so she ordered a box sold as broken Talavera tile. Most of it arrived in pieces, a few came whole, and one became the center focal tile. Sort by color first and the layout goes faster.

A gallon zip bag keeps shards contained, but the surface under it matters more. A cutting board absorbs the blow and the tile refuses to break. Concrete works: take it to the garage floor, tap with the edge of the hammer, and wear safety glasses. For controlled shapes, tile nippers beat a hammer every time.

Glue or thinset

Weld Bond is a thin white adhesive that grabs within five minutes, dries in an hour and cures in a day. It suits an indoor table and is less messy than mortar. The catch Chantel found the hard way: thin glue gives you no room to level. Each piece sits at its own thickness, so mixing thick and thin tile leaves a lumpy top. She got around it by matching thicknesses.

Thinset or mastic solves that. A thicker bed lets you press every piece down to the same height, the standard for dishes, mixed tile, or anything outdoors. For a first mosaic tile table top, glue is fine. Either way, lay the design out dry and trace the center tile in pencil so it cannot drift.

Grout color, gap width and sealing

Gaps wider than an eighth of an inch need sanded grout, because unsanded shrinks and cracks across a wide joint. Chantel picked antique white for a reason worth stealing: grout that contrasts with the tile makes every color pop, while dark grout on dark tile flattens the design. Mix it to the consistency of frosting, let it rest ten minutes, then stir again.

She piped grout in with a disposable cake-decorating bag and spread it with a putty knife because her grout float had gone missing. Tidy on a small top, but her hand was tired by the end, so use a float on anything bigger. How to wipe without pulling grout back out of the joints is covered in how to grout a mosaic. Once cured, a coat of grout sealer keeps coffee rings out of the lines.

Indoor or outdoor

This is an indoor piece and the materials show it. Glue, a painted wood top and a rope border will not survive rain and freeze cycles. For a patio table, switch to thinset and exterior grout, then follow how to seal a mosaic for outdoor use.

If a whole table feels like a lot for a first try, the same break, glue and grout method makes a mosaic coaster in an afternoon. Chantel's own verdict on the table: time-consuming, and she loved it.

Free printable

Print the steps and supply list for this project

One page you can take to the table. Free with a free account, no password.

Get the free printable

What you'll need

Free, for this project

Get this checklist by email

  • All 11 tools and materials, with tick boxes
  • A link to print all 7 steps on paper, to keep by you while you craft

No password. The whole tutorial stays free on this page.

Quick answer

Turn a $3 thrift table into a colorful mosaic side table with broken Talavera tiles, glue, and grout. A medium project: about 1 hour 15 minutes, plus 8 hours to dry or set. Materials cost about $20 to $35. You need 11 things, including small side table, mosaic tiles or broken ceramic and tile adhesive / thinset. The 7 steps start with paint the Table Base, break the Tiles Into Pieces, lay Out Your Design and glue the Pieces Down.

Step-by-step guide

7 steps, about 17 minutes. Tap a picture to jump to that step. Your progress saves automatically.

Tick each step off as you go.

  1. Step 1: Paint the Table Base

    Watch this step · 2:52

    Start with a cheap thrift-store side table. Any wobble-free little table works, so grab whatever you can find for a few dollars. Set it on a drop cloth in a well-ventilated spot.

    Give the whole thing a coat of fast-dry enamel spray paint in black or white. This hides the old finish and gives you a clean, uniform base. The painted edge also frames the finished mosaic nicely once the grout goes on, so don't skip it even if the table looks fine as-is.

    Tip:

    Watch this step Spray in light, even passes rather than one heavy coat. Two thin coats dry faster and won't drip down the legs.

    Back to all steps

  2. Step 2: Break the Tiles Into Pieces

    Watch this step · 5:00

    Now make your mosaic pieces. Slip each Talavera tile inside a zip bag or wrap it in a towel, then tap it with a hammer until it breaks into chunks. The bag keeps sharp bits from flying, so wear safety glasses too.

    For pieces that need a cleaner edge or a specific shape, nibble at them with tile nippers. Sort the broken shards into rough color groups as you go. It saves a lot of hunting later when you are building the pattern.

    Tip:

    Watch this step Break more tiles than you think you'll need. Odd shapes fill awkward gaps, and you'll want options when you get near the round edge.

    Back to all steps

  3. Step 3: Lay Out Your Design

    Watch this step · 8:24

    Before any glue touches the table, dry-lay the whole design on top. Set a feature tile in the center, like a single square with a sunflower, then build rings of broken pieces outward to the edge.

    Leave small, even gaps between shards so grout has room to sit. Shift pieces around until the colors feel balanced and the pattern reads well from every angle. This is the fun part, and it is a lot easier to rearrange loose tiles now than glued ones later.

    Tip:

    Watch this step Snap a phone photo of the layout you like. If pieces get bumped while gluing, you'll have a reference to put them back.

    Back to all steps

  4. Step 4: Glue the Pieces Down

    Watch this step · 9:00

    With the layout set, start gluing. Lift one shard, dab the back with a strong craft adhesive like Weld Bond, then press it firmly back into its spot on the table.

    Work in small sections so the rest of your layout stays undisturbed. Keep those grout gaps roughly even as you go. Once the whole top is glued, walk away and let the adhesive cure fully. Rushing to grout before the glue sets will pull pieces loose.

    Tip:

    Watch this step A little glue goes a long way. Too much squeezes up into the gaps and gets in the way of the grout.

    Back to all steps

  5. Step 5: Mix the Grout

    Watch this step · 10:24

    Time to fill the gaps. Pour some sanded grout into a bucket and add water a little at a time, stirring as you go. You want a thick, spreadable paste, about the texture of smooth peanut butter, with no dry pockets hiding in the bottom.

    Sanded grout is the right choice for a mosaic like this because the gaps between broken tiles are wide. Only mix what you can use in one session, since grout starts to firm up in the bucket and can't be re-wet.

    Tip:

    Watch this step Add water slowly. Grout that's too soupy shrinks and cracks as it dries, so err on the thicker side.

    Back to all steps

  6. Step 6: Grout the Mosaic

    Watch this step · 13:24

    Scoop grout onto the tiles and work it into every gap. Use a grout float or gloved fingers, pressing down so no air pockets get trapped underneath. Drag the grout diagonally across the tile edges, which packs the seams tight instead of dragging it back out.

    Cover the entire surface, feature tile and all. Don't worry that the tiles look messy and hazy right now. That grout film wipes off in the next step and the colors come right back.

    Tip:

    Watch this step Wear gloves for this. Grout is hard on bare skin and gets into every knuckle crease.

    Back to all steps

  7. Step 7: Wipe Clean and Seal

    Watch this step · 15:00

    Let the grout firm up for a few minutes, then wipe the tile faces with a damp sponge, rinsing it often in clean water. The colors reappear as you clear the film, leaving grout only in the lines where it belongs. Go easy so you don't scoop grout back out of the seams.

    A light haze may return as it dries, so buff it off with a dry cloth. Once everything is fully cured, brush on a grout sealer. That last step keeps spills from staining the lines and helps your bright new table hold up.

    Tip:

    Watch this step Change your rinse water often. A dirty sponge just smears grout haze around instead of lifting it off.

    Back to all steps

How to Grout a Mosaic

Keep going

How to Grout a Mosaic

9 steps · about 15 minutes

Keep going with crafts

More on this topic, picked for this mosaic side table.

You reached the last step

Save this project to come back to it

Your ticked steps, the free printable and your other saved makes, together in My Projects. Free, no password.

You tapped Save

Save this project for later

We'll email you a link, no password.

How to Make a Mosaic Side Table

  • Your saved projects in one list
  • Your ticked steps on any device

Check your inbox for an email from us. Not there? Look in your spam folder.

Free printable

Printable sheet and shopping list for this project

The bonus is hidden until you sign up.

Free with a free account, no password. Every step above stays open to everyone.

Products Used

The Checklist

How to Make a Mosaic Side Table

Tools
6
Materials
5
Steps
7
Video
17 min

Tools we recommend

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Links on this page may be affiliate links - clicking them and buying doesn't change your price, but helps support Crafting Step by Step.

Tags

The Crafter's Weekly

New crafts tutorials, every Sunday

One short email with the week's best step-by-step guides. Free, no spam, unsubscribe anytime.

Test your knowledge

Did the lesson stick? Start with this one.

5 questions covering what you just read. No signup, no score saved, and you can stop after this one.

Question 1 of 5

Why paint the table base before any tile goes on?

Quick reference

Key takeaways from How to Make a Mosaic Side Table

5 questions, answers, and one-line explanations. Tap to expand.

  1. 1.Why paint the table base before any tile goes on?

    Answer: It hides the old finish and frames the mosaic

    A clean uniform base makes the finished mosaic read as intentional.

  2. 2.What is the point of bagging a tile before you hit it?

    Answer: It keeps sharp shards from flying

    The bag contains the break, and safety glasses cover the rest.

  3. 3.Why leave small even gaps when you dry-lay the design?

    Answer: So the grout has room to sit

    Grout needs a consistent channel between shards to hold them.

  4. 4.Why is sanded grout the right pick for this table?

    Answer: The gaps between broken tiles are wide

    Wide mosaic seams need the sand to keep grout from shrinking.

  5. 5.Why drag grout diagonally across the tile edges?

    Answer: It packs the seams instead of pulling grout out

    Going across the seams rather than along them keeps them full.

Did this work for you?

What's next

Related collections

Curated theme pages that include this tutorial.

Similar tutorials

Hand-picked next reads based on the one you just finished.

Liked this crafts tutorial?

Pick the crafts you want to hear about. One email every Sunday with new step-by-step tutorials. No spam, easy to unsubscribe.

Get more like this in your inbox

Weekly digest. Pick the categories you want. Unsubscribe anytime.

Send me tutorials about

We only email about new tutorials. Easy unsubscribe anytime.