How to Make a Concrete Candle Holder

Based on a video by DIY Creators

Opens their YouTube channel

Steps written out by CraftingStepByStep · Published · Updated

Watch the original video (opens YouTube)
The finished result: How to Make a Concrete Candle Holder

This one started with a couple bags of concrete mix and some leftover wood sitting around the shop. Glenn from DIY Creators built a candle holder out of them, and it is an easy project you can knock out over a weekend.

You will build a simple wood mold, mix the concrete, and press tea lights into the wet surface to form the candle holes. After it cures you demold the block, seal it, and mount it on a stained wood base with a curved arch cut into the bottom.

No fancy gear needed. If you can mix concrete and glue a box together, you can make this. Light the tea lights when it is done and you have a piece that looks like it came from a home decor shop.

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of concrete should you use for a candle holder?

A fine sand mix or countertop concrete mix gives the smoothest result, since the small aggregate presses into crisp detail around the tea lights. A standard all-purpose mix works too if you screen out the larger stones first.

How long does a concrete candle holder take to cure?

You can demold the block after about 24 to 48 hours, but let it dry for several more days before sealing. Concrete keeps hardening for a week or so, and sealing it too early traps moisture inside.

Do you have to seal a concrete candle holder?

Sealing is worth the extra step. A masonry or concrete sealer keeps the surface from dusting, staining, and soaking up spilled wax, and it deepens the color a little. One or two thin coats is plenty.

Are concrete candle holders safe with real candles?

Yes. Cured concrete does not burn and handles the heat of a tea light or taper without trouble. Keep the flame away from the wood base and leave tea lights in their metal cups so the wax stays contained.

New to concrete crafts? Get the basics right first: how to mix concrete for crafts and how to seal concrete crafts (indoor and outdoor).

What you'll need

Step-by-step guide

8 steps, about 6 minutes. Tap a picture to jump to that step. Your progress saves automatically.

Tick each step off as you go.

  1. Step 1: Build the Mold Box

    Watch this step · 0:18

    Cut a few flat pieces of scrap wood to size and hot glue them into an open box. Glenn uses hot glue on purpose here. It holds the form together while the concrete cures but pulls apart easily when you need to demold. Make the inside dimensions the size you want your finished block to be. Keep the corners square so the concrete sets with clean edges.

    Tip:

    Hot glue is the trick that makes this beginner friendly. No clamps, no screws, and the box comes apart in seconds later.

    Back to all steps

  2. Step 2: Mark the Candle Spots

    Watch this step · 0:45

    Lay out where each tea light will sit. Glenn draws reference lines on the mold floor and centers the candle marks so the holes come out evenly spaced. He tried to eyeball it first and it did not work, so grab a measuring tape and mark it properly. Set the candle discs on your marks so you can see the spacing before the concrete goes in.

    Tip:

    Space the marks so the tea lights are not too close to the edges. You want solid concrete around each hole.

    Back to all steps

  3. Step 3: Mix the Concrete

    Watch this step · 1:05

    Dump your concrete mix into a bucket and add water a little at a time. Stir until it is thick and spreadable, about the texture of oatmeal. Do not overdo the water. Glenn admits he made his batch too watery, which still works but takes a lot longer to dry. Aim for a mix that holds its shape when you scoop it.

    Tip:

    Add water slowly. It is easy to go too wet and hard to go back. A stiffer mix cures faster and stronger.

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  4. Step 4: Pour and Set the Candles

    Watch this step · 1:45

    Scoop the concrete into the mold and level the top. While it is still wet, press a tea light into each of your marked spots to form the candle holes. Set it outside in the sun to speed up drying. After about 20 minutes, pull the candles back out so they do not get stuck. You just want the holes they leave behind.

    Tip:

    Check the openings after a couple hours. If a candle does not drop in easily, scrape out a little extra concrete while it is still soft.

    Back to all steps

  5. Step 5: Demold the Block

    Watch this step · 2:25

    Once the concrete is firm enough to hold its own shape, peel the wood form away. Three sides usually come off easy. The fourth might fight you a bit, so work it loose slowly. After a couple days of full curing the base board separates on its own too. Now you have a solid concrete block with four candle holes.

    Tip:

    Want a smooth face instead of the raw concrete look? Wipe it with a wet sponge right after demolding to close up the surface holes.

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  6. Step 6: Sand and Seal

    Watch this step · 3:05

    Give the block a quick sand to knock off the rough edges and any loose grit. Then brush on a concrete lacquer. Glenn uses a wet-look masonry lacquer, which darkens the concrete and seals it so the dust stops rubbing off on your hands. If you prefer the natural matte gray, use a clear dry-look sealer instead. Either way, sealing protects the finish.

    Tip:

    Wet-look lacquer deepens the color and makes the concrete pop. Dry-look sealer keeps that raw industrial gray. Pick the vibe you want.

    Back to all steps

  7. Step 7: Build and Stain the Base

    Watch this step · 4:45

    Cut a frame from 1x2 pine and miter the corners. Use a bucket rim or any curved object to trace an arch on the bottom edge, then cut it out on a band saw. No band saw? Leave the bottom straight, the arch is just for looks. Sand it smooth, glue and pin the corners together, then brush on a mahogany gel stain and wipe off the excess.

    Tip:

    Gel stain is forgiving. Brush it on, wait a minute, wipe it back. The arch cut is what makes the whole piece look intentional.

    Back to all steps

  8. Step 8: Attach and Finish

    Watch this step · 6:00

    Drill a small hole in each corner of the base and press in cabinet bumpers so the piece does not scratch your table. Mix up some epoxy and spread it on the inner part of the base, keeping it away from the edges so it does not squeeze out. Set the concrete block on top, add a little weight, and let it cure. Drop in the tea lights and light them up.

    Tip:

    Epoxy is the right glue for bonding concrete to wood. Keep it toward the center so nothing oozes out the sides when you press down.

    Back to all steps

Keep going

How to Make Concrete Coasters with Gold Leaf Edges

Products Used

The Checklist

How to Make a Concrete Candle Holder

Tools
10
Materials
9
Steps
8
Video
6 min

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Question 1 of 5

How do you form the holes that hold the tea lights?

Quick reference

Key takeaways from How to Make a Concrete Candle Holder

5 questions, answers, and one-line explanations. Tap to expand.

  1. 1.How do you form the holes that hold the tea lights?

    Answer: Press tea lights into the wet concrete

    Setting the tea lights into the wet surface molds a perfect pocket for each one.

  2. 2.What is the mold for this project made from?

    Answer: A simple wood box you build

    A glued-together wood box shapes the concrete block.

  3. 3.Why seal the concrete once it is demolded?

    Answer: To protect the surface and resist stains

    A sealer keeps wax and dirt from soaking into the porous concrete.

  4. 4.What is the candle holder mounted on to finish it?

    Answer: A stained wood base

    A stained wood base with a curved arch gives it that home-decor-shop look.

  5. 5.Why wait for the concrete to cure before demolding?

    Answer: So it hardens enough to release without cracking

    Green concrete is fragile; a full cure lets it pop out of the mold in one piece.

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