How to Weave In Ends Knitting (2 Methods for a Clean Finish)

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Steps written out by Crafting Step by Step from Studio Knit's video (opens YouTube) (5:12). Published .

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Weaving in ends is the part most knitters secretly dread, but it is the difference between a project that looks handmade and one that looks finished. Every new ball and every bind-off leaves a tail hanging off the work. Those tails have to go back into the fabric so they do not unravel or show on the right side.

Kristen from Studio Knit teaches two go-to methods. One runs the tail along the edge through the wrong-side loops. The other travels on a slight diagonal through the body of the work, which hides a contrasting color better. She uses green and hot pink on a white swatch so you can see the path; in your own work the tail matches and disappears.

If you crochet too, the idea is similar but the fabric differs - the crochet version is in how to weave in ends in crochet. Still learning? Start with how to knit for absolute beginners; this is the last step of every project there.

Where to weave

Seams and edges come first. If the piece gets sewn up, seam it with mattress stitch, then run the tails into the seam allowance where nothing can show. On an open edge, follow the selvedge. Only go into the body when there is no edge nearby. On stockinette, work through the purl bumps on the wrong side. On ribbing, follow a purl column down.

How long a tail to leave

About six inches. Less than that and threading the needle turns into a wrestle. Leave a longer cast-on tail if you plan to seam with it. When you add a ball mid-project, how to join yarn in knitting shows where to put the join so both tails land at an edge.

Slippery yarns

Silk, bamboo, cotton and superwash wool slide back out if you treat them like rustic wool. Two fixes. On the return pass, aim the needle through the plies of the tail itself so it pierces the yarn instead of riding beside it. And change direction three times, not twice. The extra turns build friction. For very slick ribbon or silk, split a long tail into its plies and weave each one separately in a different direction.

Weave as you knit

On a striped blanket, ends add up. When you join a new color, lay the old tail along the working yarn and catch it on the back of the next eight or ten stitches, the same way you carry a float. Trim it after blocking. It saves an evening of finishing.

Block before you trim

Blocking relaxes and stretches the fabric. A tail trimmed before blocking can pull back and pop out the first time the piece is washed. Weave, then block your knitting, then trim.

Common mistakes

  • Trimming flush. The tail has nothing to hold and works out. Leave about a quarter inch.
  • A straight line in the body. It shows on the right side as a ridge. Go diagonal or stay on the edge.
  • Pulling tight. The fabric puckers. Stretch it after each pass so the tail matches the knitting.
  • Weaving on the right side. Check which face is which before you start. A purl-bump path on the front shows forever.

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Quick answer

Finish any knit project cleanly. Two beginner-proof methods for weaving in yarn ends - along the edge and on the diagonal - in 7 photo-led steps. An easy project: about 10 minutes. You need 4 things, including yarn, tapestry needle and embroidery scissors. The 7 steps: thread Your Tapestry Needle, weave Along the Edge (First Direction), reverse Direction Through the Same Column, third Pass for Extra Security, start the Diagonal Method, continue the Diagonal Weave and trim the Yarn.

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7 steps, about 5 minutes. Tap a picture to jump to that step. Your progress saves automatically.

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  1. Step 1: Thread Your Tapestry Needle

    Watch this step · 0:38

    You should have a few inches of yarn tail hanging off the corner of your finished knit piece. Thread the tail through the eye of your tapestry needle. A blunt-tip darning needle or tapestry needle is what you want - sharp embroidery needles split the strands of yarn and look messy, blunt needles slide between the strands cleanly.

    If your tail is too short to thread comfortably, work the yarn back through one or two loops by hand to lengthen it, then thread the needle.

    Tip:

    A bent-tip tapestry needle (sometimes called a darning needle) is worth the extra two dollars. The angle makes it easier to slide under stitches without the tip catching on the fabric.

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  2. Step 2: Weave Along the Edge (First Direction)

    Watch this step · 0:45

    Flip the knit piece over so the wrong side - the back - is facing up. The wrong side of garter stitch has the same bumpy look as the front, but for stockinette it is the smooth purl side.

    Bring the threaded needle to the side edge of the work and start weaving the tail through the surface loops along that edge. Go down for at least an inch. For chunky yarn that is about five loops; for fingering weight closer to ten. The yarn rides on the surface of the wrong side and never shows on the front.

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  3. Step 3: Reverse Direction Through the Same Column

    Watch this step · 0:55

    Once you have woven about an inch in the first direction, change direction and come back up the same column of surface loops, threading the tail through them exactly the same way you went down.

    This is what locks the yarn in place. The first pass alone would slide right back out, but the second pass through the same loops creates friction in both directions. Take your time and pull the yarn snug after each loop so the woven tail sits flat against the fabric.

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  4. Step 4: Third Pass for Extra Security

    Watch this step · 1:30

    For anything that gets washed or worn regularly - hats, sweaters, socks, washcloths - add a third pass alongside the first column. Same idea: travel down through five or so loops, in the same row of surface loops you have been working.

    Three passes is enough for any project that gets normal wear. The finished weave-in sits invisibly on the wrong side of the work along the seam edge. The benefit of this edge method is that it is quick and simple. The trade-off is that if you used a strongly contrasting color, you may see a faint hint of it on the right side - the diagonal method (next) hides contrasting colors better.

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  5. Step 5: Start the Diagonal Method

    Watch this step · 2:25

    Here is the second method, useful when you have a contrasting yarn color or when the weave-in needs to be completely invisible. With the wrong side facing up, slide your needle under one strand of a knit stitch, then move one stitch over and pick up the next strand at a slight angle.

    The needle is now traveling diagonally through the fabric instead of straight along the edge. The diagonal path is much harder for the eye to spot on the right side because it does not follow a straight line of yarn that the fabric naturally creates.

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  6. Step 6: Continue the Diagonal Weave

    Watch this step · 3:25

    Keep picking up one strand at a time, moving one stitch over and one row up (or down) with each pass. The yarn traces a faint zigzag through the back of the work.

    Travel about an inch in one direction, then reverse and travel back through adjacent strands to lock the yarn in place. Same principle as the edge method - the second pass through neighboring strands is what keeps the tail from sliding out - just spread across the body of the fabric instead of riding along one edge. Three diagonal segments is plenty of security for any project.

    Tip:

    If you can see the contrasting yarn pop through to the front while you are working, you went too deep. Only catch the top strand of each stitch, not the strand below it.

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  7. Step 7: Trim the Yarn

    Watch this step · 4:00

    Give the woven tail a gentle stretch so it sits flush with the surrounding fabric. Then trim the leftover yarn close to the surface using sharp embroidery scissors - the small curved kind sometimes called stork scissors are ideal because they get in tight without nicking the knit.

    Leave about a quarter-inch tail rather than cutting flush. When you stretch the piece once more, that tiny tail pulls itself back inside the fabric and disappears. Your project is officially done.

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Which needle is the right tool for weaving in knit ends?

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Key takeaways from How to Weave In Ends Knitting (2 Methods for a Clean Finish)

5 questions, answers, and one-line explanations. Tap to expand.

  1. 1.Which needle is the right tool for weaving in knit ends?

    Answer: A blunt-tip darning or tapestry needle

    Blunt slides between yarn strands; sharp needles split them and look messy.

  2. 2.Why weave a second pass back through the SAME column of loops?

    Answer: The second pass creates friction so the tail can't slide back out

    One pass alone slides out; two creates friction in both directions and locks it.

  3. 3.How many passes are recommended for items that get washed or worn regularly?

    Answer: Three passes

    Three passes is enough for any project that sees normal wear and washing.

  4. 4.When is the diagonal method better than the edge method?

    Answer: When you have a contrasting color or want a completely invisible finish

    Diagonal weave hides contrasting yarn that would faintly show through with the edge method.

  5. 5.After weaving the yarn in, where do you trim the tail?

    Answer: About a quarter inch from the surface, then stretch the fabric

    The quarter inch pulls back inside the fabric when you stretch the piece - disappearing into the knit.

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