How to Knit a Gauge Swatch That Measures True

The finished result: How to Knit a Gauge Swatch That Measures True
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • About 1 hour, plus 12 hours to dry or set
  • 10 steps

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Steps written out by Crafting Step by Step from Roxanne Richardson's video (opens YouTube) (19:20). Published .

A gauge swatch is a small test square you knit before a project. It tells you if your needles make stitches the same size as the designer's. Skip it and a sweater can come out two sizes too big. Roxanne Richardson knits hers with a garter stitch border all the way around, plus a small trick at the transitions that keeps the measurement honest. Her method also makes the swatch lie flat, so washing and measuring are easy.

How to knit a gauge swatch: what you need

  • The yarn for your project. The same yarn, not a similar one. Even the same weight can knit up differently.
  • The needles the pattern suggests. Same material too. Bamboo, metal and wood can change your gauge.
  • A gauge ruler or tape measure. A ruler with a 4 inch window makes counting easy.
  • A towel and a flat place to dry it. A blocking mat is handy but not required.

How many stitches to cast on

Find the gauge in your pattern, for example 20 stitches over 4 inches. Cast on that number plus 6 for a 3 stitch garter border on each side. Then add 1 stitch for every 10 when you start the stockinette. Measuring over a full 4 inches is far more accurate than measuring over 1 inch and multiplying.

Pattern gauge (4 in)Cast onIncrease
16 sts222
20 sts262
24 sts302
28 sts343

Reading your result

Too few stitches in 4 inches means your stitches are too big. Go down a needle size. Too many means they are too small. Go up a size. One needle size usually shifts gauge by about one stitch over 4 inches. Match stitch gauge first. Row gauge matters less because most patterns tell you to knit to a length, not a row count.

Why wash the swatch

Knitting changes the first time it gets wet. It softens, relaxes and may grow. Your finished project will be washed, so the washed swatch is the one that counts. Measure before washing, then again once it is completely dry. Wet wool is always a bit bigger, so do not trust a damp measurement.

Common mistakes

  • Swatching flat for a project knit in the round. Knit the swatch the way you will knit the project.
  • Measuring the edge stitches. Leave out the border and the extra stitches next to it.
  • Stretching it while it dries. Pat it into shape and let it relax.
  • Swatching once and never again. A new yarn or a new needle brand can change your gauge, even for a knitter with years of practice.

Before you start your project

If any step here is new, start with how to cast on and how to increase. The gauge line is explained in how to read a knitting pattern, and how to block knitting covers washing and drying in more detail.

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Quick answer

How to knit a gauge swatch that lies flat: cast on, add a garter border, measure over 4 inches, then wash and measure again. An easy project: about 1 hour, plus 12 hours to dry or set. You need 8 things, including project yarn, wool wash and gauge ruler. The 10 steps start with cast On the Gauge Swatch and Knit a Garter Stitch Border and add Increases on the First Stockinette Row of the Gauge Swatch.

Step-by-step guide

10 steps, about 19 minutes. Tap a picture to jump to that step. Your progress saves automatically.

Tick each step off as you go.

  1. Step 1: Cast On the Gauge Swatch and Knit a Garter Stitch Border

    Watch this step · 3:15

    Check your pattern for the gauge, such as 20 stitches over 4 inches. Cast on that number plus 6, so 26 stitches here. Use the same yarn and needles you plan to use for the project. Knit every row for 5 or 6 rows. That makes a garter stitch border along the bottom that stops the swatch from curling.

    Tip:

    Write the needle size on a scrap of paper and keep it with the swatch.

    Back to all steps

  2. Step 2: Add Increases on the First Stockinette Row of the Gauge Swatch

    Watch this step · 6:50

    On the next right side row, knit the first 3 stitches for the side border. Then knit about 5 stitches, make one, knit 10 more and make one again. Add 1 stitch for every 10 you planned for the stockinette. These extra stitches stop the garter border from flaring and give you spare edge stitches to leave out when you measure.

    Tip:

    Any increase works here. Make one, knit front and back, whichever you know.

    Back to all steps

  3. Step 3: Purl Across the Gauge Swatch With Garter Stitch Edges

    Watch this step · 7:50

    On the wrong side, knit the first 3 stitches, purl across until 3 stitches remain, then knit those last 3. On right side rows, knit every stitch. The first and last 3 stitches stay in garter stitch the whole way up. That forms a neat frame at each side so the swatch lies flat without rolling.

    Tip:

    Clip a stitch marker after the third stitch on each side until the pattern sinks in.

    Back to all steps

  4. Step 4: Knit Two Inches of Stockinette in the Gauge Swatch

    Watch this step · 8:48

    Keep working the rows until you have about 2 inches of stockinette above the border. Finish on a right side row. Two inches is enough fabric to get a fair first reading without the top and bottom edges pulling at the stitches. It also saves you from knitting a full swatch on the wrong needles.

    Tip:

    Knit at your normal pace. Tense or careful knitting changes gauge too.

    Back to all steps

  5. Step 5: Take a Preliminary Gauge Measurement on the Needle

    Watch this step · 9:12

    Lay the swatch flat with the needle still in. Set a gauge ruler on the stockinette and count the stitches across 4 inches. Leave out the border and the two extra stitches next to it. Roxanne counted exactly 20, so she kept going. If you are off by a full stitch or more, plan to change needles.

    Tip:

    Count the little V shapes. Each V is one stitch.

    Back to all steps

  6. Step 6: Change Needle Size Mid Swatch With a Garter Ridge

    Watch this step · 12:18

    If your gauge is off, do not rip it out. Grab the next needle size up or down. Knit across the next wrong side row instead of purling. That leaves a garter ridge that marks where the needles changed. Then knit another 2 inches with the new pair, and note which needle made which section.

    Tip:

    Fewer stitches than you need means smaller needles. More means bigger needles.

    Back to all steps

  7. Step 7: Decrease and Knit the Top Garter Border of the Gauge Swatch

    Watch this step · 12:45

    Once the stockinette reaches about 4 inches, work 2 decreases on the next right side row, in about the same places as your increases. That brings you back to the cast on count. Knit 5 or 6 rows of garter stitch for the top border, then bind off loosely. Fresh off the needles it will roll a little and feel stiff.

    Tip:

    Bind off with a larger needle if your bind offs tend to be tight.

    Back to all steps

  8. Step 8: Measure the Gauge Swatch Before Washing

    Watch this step · 14:20

    Lay the swatch flat without stretching it. Measure across the center stockinette again, leaving out the edge stitches. Write down the stitches per 4 inches and the rows per 4 inches. You need this number to see how much the fabric changes after washing. Some knitters find it grows quite a bit.

    Tip:

    Measure in two or three places and use the average.

    Back to all steps

  9. Step 9: Soak the Gauge Swatch and Roll It in a Towel

    Watch this step · 16:06

    Wash the swatch the way the yarn label says. For plain wool, soak it in a bowl of warm water for at least 20 minutes. Wool holds air and needs time to soak through. Squeeze the water out gently, never wring it. Then roll the swatch up in an old towel and press to pull out as much water as you can.

    Tip:

    Add a little wool wash so the swatch is treated the way your project will be.

    Back to all steps

  10. Step 10: Dry the Gauge Swatch Flat and Measure It Again

    Watch this step · 17:25

    Lay the damp swatch on a mat or towel. Smooth the stitches with your hands and push it in a little so nothing is stretched. Pin the garter corners only if you want to. Let it dry completely, then measure once more. That dry, washed number is your true gauge. Pick the needle that matches it.

    Tip:

    Keep the swatch with your project notes. It is a handy color and yarn reference later.

    Back to all steps

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How to Knit a Gauge Swatch That Measures True

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