How to Make Concrete Mushrooms for the Garden

The finished result: How to Make Concrete Mushrooms for the Garden
  • Difficulty: Medium
  • About 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 24 hours to dry or set
  • 10 steps

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Steps written out by Crafting Step by Step from ChrisGagnon DIY's video (opens YouTube) (8:08). Published .

A concrete mushroom is one of the cheapest good-looking things you can put in a garden. The moulds are dollar-store bowls. The concrete is one bag of sand topping mix. The only part that costs real money is the glass gems, and those are a few dollars a bag.

Chris Gagnon's build adds solar LEDs pushed through drilled holes in the cap, so the gems light up after dark. That is the detail that makes people stop and look.

This is a multi-day project, not because the work is long but because concrete needs to cure between stages. Cap one day, stem the next, paint after that.

If you want more in the same material, try a concrete planter or stepping stones.

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Quick answer

Cast concrete garden mushrooms using plastic bowls as moulds. A medium project: about 1 hour 30 minutes, plus 24 hours to dry or set. Materials cost about $20 to $35. You need 17 things, including Sand topping mix, Flat glass gems and PVC pipe offcut. The 10 steps start with gather the Moulds, Gems and Mix, mix the Concrete Stiff, fill the Bowl Mould, release the Cap, drill the Gem Holes and set the Glass Gems.

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10 steps, about 8 minutes. Tap a picture to jump to that step. Your progress saves automatically.

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  1. Step 1: Gather the Moulds, Gems and Mix

    Watch this step · 0:44

    The shopping list is short. A few plastic bowls in graduating sizes from a dollar store, a bag of flat glass gems, and sand topping mix.

    Sand topping mix is the right product here rather than a general concrete mix. It has no large aggregate in it, so it picks up the smooth inside face of the bowl and takes a drilled hole without blowing out.

    Two bowls make the cap: the big one holds the concrete, the smaller one presses into it to hollow the underside.

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  2. Step 2: Mix the Concrete Stiff

    Watch this step · 0:55

    Mix it stiffer than feels right. Somewhere around thick oatmeal.

    A wetter mix is easier to pour and it cracks as it dries. That is learned the hard way, and there is no fixing a cracked cap after the fact.

    Tip:

    Mix a full batch for the cap in one go. A second batch mixed to a slightly different consistency shows as a colour difference in the finished piece.

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  3. Step 3: Fill the Bowl Mould

    Watch this step · 1:22

    Trowel the mix into the largest bowl right up to the rim.

    Then press the smaller bowl down into the middle. That displaces concrete up the sides and leaves you a domed cap with a hollow underside, which keeps the weight down.

    Tap the sides as you go to bring the air bubbles up.

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  4. Step 4: Release the Cap

    Watch this step · 2:40

    Once it has cured, work the plastic bowl off. Tap around the outside and it should let go - the inside of a plastic bowl is smooth enough that concrete does not grip it hard.

    Wipe the bowls with cooking oil or wax before you cast next time. It takes ten seconds and turns a fight into a clean release.

    The demolded surface comes out surprisingly smooth.

    Tip:

    If a bowl really will not release, it is cheap enough to cut. Do not lever against the concrete edge and chip the cap.

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  5. Step 7: Skim a Second Coat Over the Cap

    Watch this step · 4:15

    Mix a small second batch and smear it across the whole cap, working it around every gem.

    This fills the gaps at the edge of each hole and locks the gems in. Without it they sit in loose sockets and will eventually work free.

    Wipe the excess back off the gem faces with a damp sponge before it sets. A sponge is far easier than a towel here.

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  6. Step 8: Cast the Stem

    Watch this step · 5:00

    The stem is a styrofoam cup filled with concrete around a short piece of pipe.

    The pipe makes a channel through the middle, which is how the solar light wires get from the cap down and out of sight. PVC offcut works; so does anything tubular.

    When it is cured, tear the foam cup away. That is the easiest release of the whole project.

    Tip:

    Push the pipe in before the concrete stiffens and check it is vertical from two directions. A leaning channel makes the cap sit crooked.

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  7. Step 9: Paint It

    Watch this step · 5:22

    White base coat first, then the colour. Concrete is grey and drinks pigment, so a colour sprayed straight onto bare concrete comes out muddy.

    Classic toadstool red over white is what makes it read as a mushroom from across the garden. Spray paint is fine outdoors; use an exterior product.

    Paint will get on the gems. That is expected and it comes off in the next step.

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  8. Step 10: Clean the Gems and Fit the Lights

    Watch this step · 7:05

    Wipe the overspray off each gem with lacquer thinner. A sponge with a scouring pad on one side is the fast way - the sponge holds the thinner and the rough side lifts the paint.

    Then push the LED string into the drilled holes, one light per gem, and run the wire down through the stem channel.

    Twenty lights is not many. Thirty or forty looks better if your string will stretch to it.

    Tip:

    Seal the concrete before it goes outside for a winter. Unsealed concrete takes on water, and water that freezes inside a cast piece cracks it.

    Back to all steps

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How to Make Concrete Mushrooms for the Garden

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Question 1 of 5

Why use sand topping mix rather than a general concrete mix?

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Key takeaways from How to Make Concrete Mushrooms for the Garden

5 questions, answers, and one-line explanations. Tap to expand.

  1. 1.Why use sand topping mix rather than a general concrete mix?

    Answer: No large aggregate, so it drills clean

    No coarse stone means it picks up the smooth bowl face and drills without blowing out.

  2. 2.How stiff should the mix be?

    Answer: Around thick oatmeal, stiffer than feels right

    A wetter mix pours more easily and then cracks as it dries.

  3. 3.What is the second, smaller bowl for?

    Answer: Pressing in to hollow the underside of the cap

    Pressing it in displaces concrete up the sides and keeps the cap light.

  4. 4.Why skim a second thin coat across the cap after setting the gems?

    Answer: Otherwise the gems sit loose and work free

    The skim fills the gap at the edge of each hole and locks the gems in place.

  5. 5.Why does the cap get a white base coat before the colour?

    Answer: It stops the grey drinking the pigment muddy

    Colour sprayed straight onto grey concrete comes out muddy rather than bright.

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