How to Build a Wooden Planter Box (Simple Straight-Cut Build)

1. 1

   Step 1: Gather Your Boards and Screws

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   The material list is short. You need six 8-foot deck boards, two 8-foot pressure-treated 2x4s for the legs and braces, and a handful of 2-inch exterior screws. That's the whole shopping list.

   Pedro used pressure-treated lumber because this box holds flowers. If you plan to grow food in yours, switch to cedar or line the inside with plastic so nothing leaches into the soil. Either way, use exterior screws so the joints hold up outdoors.

   Tip:

   Watch this step Buy one or two extra deck boards. A warped or split board is easy to set aside when you have spares, and you avoid a second trip to the store mid-build.

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   Used in this steppressure-treated 2x4 lumber2-inch exterior wood screwscedar deck boards

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2. 2

   Step 2: Cut All the Pieces

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   Every cut here is straight, so a miter saw or a circular saw both work. Cut eight 2x4 legs at 16 inches. Cut four deck boards at 16 inches for the sides. Cut four more deck boards at 48 inches for the front and back.

   Mark each piece with a pencil and a speed square before you cut so your ends stay square. Keeping the legs identical is what makes the box sit flat later, so measure twice on those.

   Tip:

   Watch this step A stop block clamped to your saw fence lets you cut all eight 16-inch legs to the exact same length without re-measuring each one. New to the saw? See our guide on how to use a circular saw.

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   Used in this step10-inch compound miter saw25-foot tape measurespeed square

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3. 3

   Step 3: Screw the Front and Back to the Legs

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   Stand two legs up and lay a 48-inch deck board across them. Screw through the board into the legs, driving the screws from the inside out so the heads never show on the finished face. Put about three screws into each leg.

   Keep the board flush with the top and bottom of the legs before you drive anything. Pedro stacked a second board underneath the first and staggered the screws slightly, which gives the joint a little more strength.

   Tip:

   Watch this step Two-inch screws grab the leg without poking out the back. If yours want to split the wood, drill a small pilot hole first. Our how to use a drill guide covers pilot holes.

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   Used in this stepcordless drill/driver kit2-inch exterior wood screws

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4. 4

   Step 4: Add the Second Leg to Each Side

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   Attach the second leg piece to the end of your front-and-back assembly, flush with the top of the first leg. Drive about three screws through it into the leg behind it.

   Set these screws about three-quarters of an inch up from the bottom edge so they land in the middle of the inch-and-a-half-thick 2x4. These heads will show on the outside, but the side boards go on next and hide most of the joint.

   Tip:

   Watch this step Flush the tops of the two legs before you drive a single screw. If the tops don't line up now, the box will rock on the ground later and no amount of dirt fixes it.

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   Used in this stepcordless drill/driver kitcarpenter's pencil

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5. 5

   Step 5: Clamp and Attach the Sides

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   The 16-inch side boards close up the box. Working solo, Pedro clamped each side board to the frame at the top so it stayed put while he worked. Make sure the board is flush at the top and pressed tight against the leg so the legs don't spread apart.

   Screw from the inside into the leg. Get a couple of screws in, pop the clamps off, then add one more screw at the very top for good measure. Repeat on the other side.

   Tip:

   Watch this step Clamps are the second pair of hands you don't have. Two bar clamps hold a side board perfectly square while you drive screws, which beats fighting a shifting board on your own.

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   Used in this stepbar clamp setcordless drill/driver kit

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6. 6

   Step 6: Install the Bottom Braces

   Watch this step · 7:35

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   Cut three 16-inch braces from the leftover 2x4. Drop one at each end and one in the middle of the box, flush with the bottom of the front and back boards. A tight fit is a good sign here.

   Screw through the front deck board into each brace, then through the back. Don't try to screw down through the top of the brace, your screws won't reach it. On the end braces, add a screw or two through the side boards too.

   Tip:

   Watch this step These three braces carry the weight of wet soil, so seat them tight and drive the screws home. This is the frame that keeps a full planter from sagging in the middle.

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   Used in this steppressure-treated 2x4 lumber2-inch exterior wood screws

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7. 7

   Step 7: Cut and Fit the Bottom Boards

   Watch this step · 9:05

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   Measure the inside length of the box. Pedro's came out to 46 inches, so he cut three deck boards at 46 inches. Drop them in across the braces and they should sit snug.

   The last board almost never fits full width, so rip it narrower to fill the gap. Pedro ripped his to about four and a half inches and left a small space on purpose. That gap gives extra water somewhere to drain.

   Tip:

   Watch this step Leave a slight gap between bottom boards instead of forcing them edge to edge. The wood swells when it gets wet, and a little breathing room stops the bottom from buckling. Building more boxes? Our cutting board guide covers ripping boards cleanly.

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   Used in this stepcircular saworbital sander

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8. 8

   Step 8: Drill the Drainage Holes

   Watch this step · 9:55

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   A planter needs drainage or the roots sit in water and rot. Drill several holes through the bottom boards. Pedro used a half-inch Forstner bit, which cuts a clean flat-bottomed hole.

   Scatter the holes around and steer clear of the center brace so your bit doesn't hit it. Half an inch is a good size. Go bigger and soil washes out, go smaller and it clogs. If you're worried about soil loss, lay landscape fabric over the bottom before you fill it.

   Tip:

   Watch this step Lay a scrap board under the box before you drill so the bit blows through into the scrap, not your deck. Landscape fabric over the holes keeps soil in while letting water pass.

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   Used in this stephalf-inch Forstner drill bitlandscape fabric

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9. 9

   Step 9: Finish, Seal, and Plant

   Watch this step · 10:55

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   That's the whole build. Simple design, nice and sturdy, and every cut was straight. Give the outside a quick pass with an orbital sander to knock down any rough edges and splinters.

   Pressure-treated wood can go outside as is, but a coat of exterior stain or sealer deepens the color and buys you years of extra life. Then line it with landscape fabric, fill it with potting mix, and plant your flowers.

   Tip:

   Watch this step Let pressure-treated lumber dry out for a few weeks before you seal it, or the finish won't soak in. A yearly coat of sealer keeps the box looking sharp season after season.

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   Used in this stepexterior wood stain and sealerorbital sander

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