How to Use a Drill

There are two drills worth knowing. The cordless drill is battery-powered, light enough to reach for one-handed, and the one you'll grab for 90% of jobs around the house. The corded drill plugs into the wall, has noticeably more torque, and shines on bigger jobs - long deck screws, large spade-bit holes, mixing thinset.

Either one belongs in your toolbox. If you only buy one, start with a cordless. Modern 18V or 20V lithium-ion drills have more than enough power for hanging shelves, building furniture, and most home repairs. Add a corded later if you find yourself stalling the cordless on heavy work.

The battery slides into the bottom of the drill's grip. To charge it, press the release tab and pull the battery straight down out of the drill. Snap it into the docking station that came in the box, then plug the dock into a wall outlet. A light on the dock shows charging; it changes color or turns off when full.

Most lithium batteries top up in 30 to 60 minutes. When you're done, snap the battery back into the drill - it only goes in one way, you'll feel it click. A second battery is the upgrade everyone wishes they bought sooner. One on the drill, one on the charger, no downtime.

The chuck is the round metal cylinder at the front of the drill. It's the part that grips the bit, and it's the part you'll touch every time you swap one out. Don't grab the bit when you're loosening or tightening - grab the chuck itself, all the way around.

Look at the body of the drill just above the trigger. There's a button that sticks out one side and pokes through to the other. Push it from the left and the drill spins one direction; push it from the right and it spins the opposite way. That same button controls whether the chuck is loosening or tightening when you pull the trigger. You'll also see the clutch numbers (1 through 20 or so) on the ring behind the chuck - leave them on the highest setting for drilling holes and dial them lower when you're driving screws.

Push the direction button to the loosen side (drill will spin counter-clockwise from your view). Wrap your hand firmly around the chuck and squeeze the trigger gently. The chuck spins inside your grip, loosens around the bit, and the bit slides free.

The same routine works for any bit: a Phillips driver bit, a small drill bit, a spade bit, a hole saw. Don't try to twist the bit itself or grab it with pliers - that's how you wreck a chuck. Always grip the chuck. If the bit is stuck after a long job, run a short burst of trigger in loosen direction and it'll let go.

Look straight into the open chuck. You'll see three metal arms angled inward - those are the jaws. They close in toward the center when the chuck tightens, and that's what grips your bit. With a small bit, you can actually see them; with a big bit, they're hidden by the shank.

Drop the bit in and steady it with the fingers of your free hand so it stays centered. Flip the direction button to tighten. Grip the chuck firmly with one hand, the bit steady with the other, and pull the trigger. The jaws close in and grab the bit. Give it a tug to confirm it's seated. If the bit wiggles, retighten - a loose bit wobbles, leaves an oversized hole, and can fly out.

A spade bit is the flat paddle-shaped bit you use for big holes - 1/2 inch and up, for running cable, plumbing, or making a hole big enough for a finger. Because the shank is wider than a twist bit, the chuck jaws are open further when you insert it.

Steady the bit with your free hand so it's perfectly centered in the opening. Turn the chuck by hand (no trigger yet) until the jaws just grab the shank. Now wrap your fingers around the chuck, pull the trigger to tighten, and you'll feel it cinch down hard. The pointy tip in the center of the spade is your guide - line that up on your mark when you go to drill and it'll start right where you want it.

Corded drills carry a lot more power than cordless. If you try to tighten the chuck with the trigger like you would on a cordless, the chuck will grab your hand instead of the bit - exactly what you don't want. Tighten manually.

Insert the bit and steady it centered in the chuck. Grab the top half of the chuck with one hand and turn it one direction. With the other hand, grab the silver band at the base of the chuck and turn the opposite direction. You'll feel resistance build, then hear a click, click as it snugs tight. That ratchet sound is the chuck telling you it's locked. Pull on the bit to confirm.

Put on your safety glasses. Mark the spot you want to drill with a pencil. For the cleanest start on wood, dimple the mark with a punch or an awl so the bit can't wander. Line the tip of the bit up on the mark, hold the drill so the bit is perpendicular to the surface, and squeeze the trigger steadily as you push.

Let the bit do the work. Heavy pressure is the rookie move - it stalls the motor, dulls the bit, and makes the hole ragged. Steady forward pressure, full trigger, smooth pull-out. If the bit binds, ease off, let it spin a second, then continue. The whole job feels the same on the cordless or the corded - same grip, same pressure, same rhythm.