How to Crochet an Elephant (Beginner Amigurumi Pattern)

Every amigurumi piece starts the same way, and this elephant is no different. Make a magic ring and work 6 single crochet into it, then pull the ring tight so there's no hole in the center. If the magic ring is new to you, our magic ring guide walks through it slowly.

Round two is 2 single crochet in each stitch, which brings you to 12. Keep working in a continuous spiral to build up the little tube shape of the first leg. Drop a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round so you don't lose your place.

You need four matching legs, so repeat the same little tube four times. Round three is worked in the back loops only, which leaves a small ridge that becomes the foot. After that, single crochet straight up the sides until each leg is the same height.

Fasten off three of the legs and weave the tails in. Leave the fourth leg attached with a long working tail still on the hook, because that's the one you'll use to start joining everything together.

This is the part that makes the standing shape work. With the fourth leg still on your hook, line the legs up in pairs. Work 12 single crochet around the first leg, chain a few stitches to bridge the gap, then 12 single crochet around the next leg.

Keep going until all four legs are connected into one clover-shaped base. It looks a little awkward at this stage, which is completely normal. The gaps between the legs close up as soon as you start working the body over the top.

Now the shape starts to appear. Single crochet all the way around the top of the joined legs, working across those chain bridges too so the gaps disappear. This first full round lands you around 60 stitches, which is the widest part of the body.

Work a few even rounds here without increasing or decreasing. The body grows up and outward, and you'll start to see the round belly of the elephant take shape as you go.

To round off the back and top, you alternate plain rounds with decrease rounds. A typical round reads something like 8 single crochet, then an invisible decrease, repeated around. Each decrease round pulls the body in a little more.

Use the invisible decrease rather than a standard one. It works into the front loops of the next two stitches and leaves a much smoother surface, so the finished body looks tidy instead of lumpy.

Before the opening gets too small, stuff the body firmly with polyester fiberfill. Push small amounts in at a time and work it into the legs and corners with the back of your hook. Firm stuffing holds the shape and keeps the elephant from going floppy over time.

Keep working the decrease rounds until you're down to about 6 stitches. Cut the yarn, thread the tail through those last loops, and pull it tight to cinch the top closed. Weave the end back inside the body to hide it.

The head, ears, and trunk are worked as separate pieces. The head is a small stuffed ball with the trunk shaped straight off the front, worked in rounds and stuffed lightly so the trunk still bends. The ears are two flat rounded pieces left unstuffed so they lie against the head.

Once each piece is made, hold them up against the body to check placement before you sew anything. Pin the head to the front of the body and set the ears just behind it so the whole thing reads as an elephant.

Position the safety eyes on the head before you sew it on, since you can't reach the backs once everything is closed. Push each post through the fabric and snap the washer on tight. Our safety eyes guide covers spacing so the face looks right.

Thread the long tails onto a tapestry needle and sew the head, ears, and trunk firmly to the body. Go around each piece twice for strength, then weave in every remaining end and trim it close. Your elephant is finished and ready to stand on its own four feet.