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A gatefold card opens like a pair of doors. This version is a side gatefold: the two flaps meet off center instead of in the middle, so the front gets one wide flap and one narrow one. Jessica Taylor of Ink It Up with Jessica shows how to make one from a single piece of cardstock, two score lines and a stamped focal panel. The trick is all in where you put the glue.
A classic gatefold has two equal flaps that meet in the center. A side gatefold moves the join off to one side, which leaves a wider front for your main image. The math is the same idea. The two flaps must add up to the width of the middle panel. Here that is 1-1/2 plus 2-3/4 inches, which equals the 4-1/4 inch back. For a classic version on the same base, score at 2-1/8 and 6-3/8 inches instead.
This is the mistake almost everyone makes once. The focal panel overlaps the join. If adhesive touches both flaps, the card will not open. Put tape on only the left side of the panel. Open the card flat before you press it down, so nothing grabs the other flap by accident. Double-sided tape and foam dimensionals both work, as long as they stay on one side.
A busy print can look broken where the flaps meet. To keep it flowing, cut one piece of patterned paper 3-3/4 x 5-1/4 inches, then trim a 1-1/4 inch strip off one side. Put the strip on the narrow flap and the rest on the wide flap. Close the card and the pattern runs straight across.
Folded, this card measures 4-1/4 x 5-1/2 inches, the standard A2 card size. It slips into an A2 envelope (4-3/8 x 5-3/4 inches). Layers add thickness, so keep foam pieces thin if you plan to mail it with a single stamp.
New to cards? Start with how to make a card. For more fun folds, try an easel card or a slider card. This one makes a lovely handmade thank you card.
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Make a gatefold card from one sheet of cardstock. An easy project: about 20 minutes. Materials cost about $1 to $3. You need 13 things, including patterned paper, white cardstock and contrast cardstock for the mat. The 10 steps start with score the Gatefold Card Base on a Scoring Board, fold the First Gatefold Card Flap and Crease It, fold the Second Flap So the Gatefold Edges Meet and cover the Narrow Gatefold Flap With Patterned Paper.
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Cut a piece of cardstock to 5-1/2 x 8-1/2 inches. Jessica uses a dark navy. Lay it on a scoring board with the long side across and score two lines: one at 1-1/2 inches and one at 5-3/4 inches. You can use the scoring blade on a paper trimmer instead. A scoring board is handy if you plan to make a batch, since you only set the marks once.
Run the stylus firmly down the groove. A deep score folds cleaner.
Fold the narrow flap in along the 1-1/2 inch score line. Line the edges up neatly at top and bottom before you press down. Then run a bone folder along the fold to give it a sharp crease. A crisp crease helps the card stand up and makes the flap sit flat when the card is closed.
Crease from the middle out to each end so the fold stays straight.
Fold the wide flap in along the other score line. Its edge should butt right up against the edge of the narrow flap, with no big gap and no overlap. Check the top and bottom line up, then crease it with the bone folder. If the flaps overlap or gap, the score lines were off, so measure again from the same end.
A hair of a gap is fine. Overlap makes the card bulge.
Cut a strip of patterned paper 1-1/4 x 5-1/4 inches for the narrow flap. Jessica prefers double-sided tape for this. Run tape on the back of the strip and center it on the flap, leaving an even navy border all round. The dark border frames the paper and hides any small cutting wobble.
No patterned paper? Stamp a background on plain cardstock.
Cover the wide flap with a 2-1/2 x 5-1/4 inch piece. If your paper has an obvious pattern, like these teacups, start with one 3-3/4 x 5-1/4 inch piece instead. Trim a 1-1/4 inch strip off one side on your paper trimmer. Use the strip on the narrow flap and the rest on the wide flap, and the pattern runs straight across the closed card.
Lay both pieces on the closed card before you tape them.
Cut white cardstock to 2-3/4 x 3-1/2 inches. Ink a clear stamp, here a striped teacup, and press it straight down. Clear photopolymer stamps make it easy to see where you are placing the image. Add more layers in other colors, such as leaves and flowers. They do not have to line up exactly, so do not overthink it.
Patchy image? Stamp on a foam mat for a crisper print.
Tape the stamped piece to a 3 x 3-3/4 inch navy mat. Now the important part. Turn the mat over and put adhesive only down its left side. Leave the right side bare. That side will sit over the join between the flaps, and any tape there would glue the card shut.
Mark the no-glue side with a pencil tick if you tend to forget.
Open the card all the way so it lies flat on the table. Run a line of adhesive along the edge of the wide front flap, where the panel will land. Opening the card first means no stray tape can grab the other flap. Jessica's honest advice: she learned this one the hard way.
Keep tape a little way in from the flap edge.
Close the card and use it as a guide for placement. Line up the panel so it sits centered on the front and overlaps the join. Press it down on the left side only. Then open and close the card a few times to make sure it swings freely. If it sticks, lift the panel before the tape sets.
Foam dimensionals on the glued side give the panel a little lift.
Dark cardstock is hard to write on, so add a white insert to the inside panel. Cut it a little smaller than the panel, about 4 x 5-1/4 inches. Stamp a small flower in one corner or leave it plain for a long message. Run adhesive on the back and press it in place. Your side gatefold card is ready to sign.
Cut several inserts at once and keep them for future cards.
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How to Make a Gatefold Card (Side Gatefold With Measurements)
E6000
E6000 Craft Adhesive, Clear (3.7 oz)
The industrial-strength craft glue that bonds glass, wood, ceramic, metal, fabric, and concrete. The one adhesive most craft projects reach for.
Gorilla
Gorilla Dual-Temp Full-Size Hot Glue Gun
Dual-temp so it handles delicate florals and heavy materials alike. A precise nozzle and built-in stand make it the everyday craft-table gun.
OLFA
OLFA 18" x 24" Self-Healing Cutting Mat
The pro-standard cutting surface. Gridlines for square cuts, self-healing so blades never leave grooves, and big enough for paper, fabric, and leather.
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