How to Make an Epoxy River Serving Board

1. 1

   Step 1: Mill and Glue Up the Blank

   Watch this step · 0:20

   Enlarge

   Start with your wood strips and run them through the planer and jointer so every face is flat and square. Glue the strips into one solid panel and clamp it up tight. This is the body of your serving board, so pick clean, dry stock. Let the glue cure fully before you touch it again. A flat, well-glued blank makes every step after this easier.

   Tip:

   Alternate the grain direction on your strips to keep the finished panel from cupping over time.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepwood board blankwood gluebar clamps

   Back to all steps

2. 2

   Step 2: Draw the River Curve

   Watch this step · 1:35

   Enlarge

   Sketch an S-shaped line down the length of the panel. That line is where your resin river will run, so play with the curve until it looks right to you. A gentle, flowing bend reads more like a real river than a sharp zigzag. Draw it dark enough to follow at the saw. There is no wrong shape here, so trust your eye and commit to the line.

   Tip:

   Keep the curve away from the very edges so you leave enough solid wood on both sides for strength.

   Mark step done

   Used in this steppencil

   Back to all steps

3. 3

   Step 3: Cut Along the River Line

   Watch this step · 1:50

   Enlarge

   Take the panel to the bandsaw and cut right along your drawn curve. This splits the board into two halves that mirror each other. Go slow and let the blade track the line - a smooth cut here means the two pieces line up cleanly later. Once you are through, set the halves side by side so you can see the river gap take shape between them.

   Tip:

   A narrow bandsaw blade turns a tight curve far better than a wide one.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepbandsawbandsaw blade

   Back to all steps

4. 4

   Step 4: Rout the River Channel

   Watch this step · 3:05

   Enlarge

   Clamp the two halves back together with a gap between them and rout out a recessed valley along the cut. This channel holds the stones and the resin, so keep the depth consistent as you work down the curve. A plunge router with a straight bit does the job well. Steady the base and take light passes rather than trying to hog it all out at once.

   Tip:

   Clamp scrap on both sides of the board to give the router base extra surface to ride on.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepplunge routerrouter bit set

   Back to all steps
5. 5

   Step 5: Fill the Channel with Stones

   Watch this step · 4:05

   Enlarge

   Seal the board into a form with painter's tape and a plastic dam so the resin can not leak out. Then lay white river pebbles into the routed channel. Arrange them so they sit below the top surface with room for resin to flow around and over them. The stones give the river depth and texture once the teal epoxy goes in. Pack them loosely, not wall to wall.

   Tip:

   Press the tape hard into every seam. A tiny gap will let thin resin creep out and cure into a mess.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepwhite river stonespainter's tape

   Back to all steps

6. 6

   Step 6: Mix and Pour the Teal Epoxy

   Watch this step · 4:22

   Enlarge

   Mix your epoxy by the ratio on the kit, then stir in teal pigment until the color looks right. Pour it slowly into the channel so it works down through the stones and fills every gap. The resin will find its own level and settle around the pebbles. Pour in stages if the channel is deep, letting each layer set up before adding more. That teal against the light wood is the whole point.

   Tip:

   Warm resin flows and self-levels better, so keep your shop above 70 degrees while it cures.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepepoxy resin kitteal resin pigmentmixing cupsstir sticks

   Back to all steps

7. 7

   Step 7: Pour the Clear Flood Coat

   Watch this step · 5:20

   Enlarge

   Once the river has set, mix a batch of clear epoxy and pour it across the whole board surface. This flood coat seals the wood and gives the top a glassy, level finish. Spread it to the edges so nothing stays dry. Pop any bubbles that rise with a quick pass of heat. Let this coat cure hard before you flip the board or start sanding.

   Tip:

   A heat gun or torch held well back knocks out surface bubbles without scorching the resin.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepepoxy resin kit

   Back to all steps

8. 8

   Step 8: Trim, Sand, and Finish

   Watch this step · 5:50

   Enlarge

   Rout the excess epoxy off the edges to square the board back up. Then work through the grits with an orbital sander until the whole surface is smooth and even, wood and resin alike. Knock down any sharp edges so the board feels good in the hand. Finish with a food-safe cutting board oil or wax. Wipe it on, let it soak, and buff off the excess.

   Tip:

   Sanding dulls the resin gloss, so a final food-safe finish is what brings the shine back.

   Mark step done

   Used in this steporbital sandersandpaperfood-safe cutting board finish

   Back to all steps

9. 9

   Step 9: The Finished River Board

   Watch this step · 5:59

   Enlarge

   Here is the payoff. The teal river winds through the light striped wood with the white stones frozen inside the glossy resin. Every board comes out one of a kind because no two curves or stone layouts are the same. Wipe it down, and it is ready to serve cheese, bread, or anything else you want to show off on it. Hand-wash only to protect the finish.

   Tip:

   Re-oil the wood a few times a year to keep both the grain and the resin looking fresh.

   Mark step done

   Used in this stepfood-safe cutting board finish

   Back to all steps

Keep going

How to Use a Circular Saw

9 steps · about 9 minutes

→

Tools we recommend

• E6000

  E6000 Craft Adhesive, Clear (3.7 oz)

  The industrial-strength craft glue that bonds glass, wood, ceramic, metal, fabric, and concrete. The one adhesive most craft projects reach for.

• Gorilla

  Gorilla Dual-Temp Full-Size Hot Glue Gun

  Dual-temp so it handles delicate florals and heavy materials alike. A precise nozzle and built-in stand make it the everyday craft-table gun.

• OLFA

  OLFA 18" x 24" Self-Healing Cutting Mat

  The pro-standard cutting surface. Gridlines for square cuts, self-healing so blades never leave grooves, and big enough for paper, fabric, and leather.

Tags