How to Make a Macrame Plant Hanger: 7 Step DIY Tutorial

By CraftingStepByStepPublished Updated

Based on a video by Marching North.

The macrame plant hanger is the iconic project that taught a generation of millennials about fiber crafts. It's also genuinely useful - holds a houseplant, looks good, and only requires two knots: the spiral half-knot and the square knot.

This walkthrough from Crystal at Marching North breaks the project into seven clean steps. If you've already learned basic macrame knots, this is the perfect first real project. If you're brand new, do the basic-knots tutorial first - this assumes you can tie square knots and half knots already.

Step-by-Step Guide

1

Step 1: Thread Cords Through the Ring

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Step 1: Step 1: Thread Cords Through the Ring

Pass 8 long cotton cords through a 2-inch wooden ring and fold each at its midpoint, leaving 16 working strands hanging below the ring. The TWO outermost strands need to be longer (about 9 feet) since they do all the spiral knotting in step 2 - the inner 6 cords stay short and become fillers.

Center each cord through the ring so the lengths hang evenly below. Hang the ring from a doorknob or hook so the cords dangle naturally as you work - tying knots horizontally is much harder.

2

Step 2: Tie 25 Spiral Half Knots

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Step 2: Step 2: Tie 25 Spiral Half Knots

At the very top under the ring, use the two outermost long cords to tie 25 spiral half-knots around the inner 6 strands. A half-knot is the first half of a square knot only - left over middle, right under middle, through the loop. DON'T reverse direction.

Tying the same direction repeatedly causes the column to twist into a spiral on its own. After about 8-10 knots you'll see the spiral start. Just keep going - the column rotates as you work, so just spin the project to keep your hands comfortable.

3

Step 3: Finish With a Wrapping Knot

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Step 3: Step 3: Finish With a Wrapping Knot

Take a separate 24-inch cord. Form a U-shape against the cord bundle with the short end of the U pointing up. Wrap the long end around the bundle 6 times tightly.

Thread the wrapping end through the bottom of the U-loop, then pull the upper short end - this drags the wrapping tail back up under the wraps and locks them in. Trim the excess and tuck the ends under the wraps with a scissors tip.

Products used in this step

4

Step 4: Measure Down and Tie a Square Knot

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Step 4: Step 4: Measure Down and Tie a Square Knot

Measure 12 inches down from the bottom of the wrapping knot. At that 12-inch mark, take any group of 4 adjacent cords and tie a single square knot. Keep the top of the knot perfectly level - crooked here means a crooked plant hanger.

A square knot is left-over-middle-under-right, then right-over-middle-under-left (reversed direction so it lays flat). Tighten and check that the top edge of the knot is at exactly 12 inches.

5

Step 5: Tie 4 Square Knots Around the Ring

2:55
Step 5: Step 5: Tie 4 Square Knots Around the Ring

Work around the cord bundle, splitting the 16 strands into 4 groups of 4. Tie a square knot in each group, all at the same 12-inch level.

This creates the upper rim of the basket - the four 'arms' of the plant hanger. Eyeball the levels carefully; even a half-inch difference between knots produces a noticeably tilted basket.

6

Step 6: Drop 3 Inches and Alternate the Knots

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Step 6: Step 6: Drop 3 Inches and Alternate the Knots

Measure 3 inches BELOW the previous square-knot row. Now tie new square knots that ALTERNATE - take 2 cords from one previous knot plus 2 cords from the adjacent previous knot, giving you a new 4-cord group.

This bridging row is what turns 4 separate vertical 'arms' into a basket. Continue around the ring until you've added 4 alternating knots, all at the same new level. The diamond mesh is now visible and ready to hold a pot.

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Step 7: Final Wrapping Knot and Trim Fringe

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Step 7: Step 7: Final Wrapping Knot and Trim Fringe

Drop another 3 inches below the alternating row and gather all 16 cords together. Tie a final wrapping knot around all of them using your second 24-inch wrap cord (same technique as step 3).

Trim the fringe to 5-6 inches below the final wrapping knot. Optionally unravel the fringe ends for a softer wispy look. Slide a 5-6 inch pot into the basket from the top - the cords cradle it from below and the pot's weight pulls the basket taut.

Tip

If the basket sags too much under a heavy pot, tighten each square knot with steady pulls before dropping the pot in. If it's too tight to fit the pot, loosen the knots slightly - the cradling needs slack to wrap around the pot's sides.

Products Used

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How to Make a Macrame Plant Hanger: 7 Step DIY Tutorial

Tools
3
Materials
3
Steps
7
Video
7 min

Your Guide

Marching North

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Quick reference

Key takeaways from How to Make a Macrame Plant Hanger: 7 Step DIY Tutorial

5 questions, answers, and one-line explanations. Tap to expand.

  1. 1.What two knots build the whole hanger?

    Answer: Spiral half + square

    Spiral half-knots make the twisted column at the top. Square knots build the basket cradle. Just those two, repeated.

  2. 2.Why do the two outer cords need to be longer?

    Answer: All spiral work

    The two outermost cords tie all 25 half-knots in the spiral. The inner six just sit there as fillers - they don't shorten.

  3. 3.How does the spiral form on its own?

    Answer: Same direction knots

    A square knot reverses direction so it lies flat. Same direction each time and the column twists into a spiral on its own.

  4. 4.What does the alternating square-knot row build?

    Answer: Basket mesh for pot

    The alternating row takes 2 cords from one previous knot and 2 from the adjacent one. That cross-connection forms the basket.

  5. 5.How does the wrapping knot lock the column?

    Answer: U-loop drags tail

    Form a U, wrap 6 times tight, thread through the U bottom, pull the top end - the tail drags back UNDER the wraps and locks them.

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