How to Dome Resin on a Flat Piece

  • 8 steps
  • 8:06 video
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • About 30 minutes, plus 24 hours to dry or set
  • Materials about $1 to $3
  • Resin Art

Based on a video by Deby at Mixed Media Arts

Opens their YouTube channel

Steps written out by Crafting Step by Step · Published

Watch the original video (opens YouTube)
The finished result: How to Dome Resin on a Flat Piece
Also in:Crafts

Doming is how you give a flat resin piece a smooth, rounded, glassy top. You pour a thin coat over the surface and spread it right up to the edge, and surface tension holds it there in a gentle dome. No mold and no tape are needed.

Deby of Deby at Mixed Media Arts shows the technique on the back of a resin petri coaster. Cast pieces nearly always cure with a small sharp ridge around the back, because resin creeps up the sides of the mold. A cork backing would hide it but would also block the clear parts of the design. A domed coat fixes the ridge and leaves both sides glossy.

Why resin domes instead of running off

Resin goes where resin has been. As long as the liquid stops at the edge, surface tension holds it on top and it settles into a slight curve. The moment one spot goes over the edge, the resin has a path, and the rest follows it down the side. That is the whole skill: get to the edge, never past it.

What you can dome

  • The flat back of cast coasters and paperweights.
  • Pendants, cabochons and charms.
  • Photos, stickers and paper pieces sealed first with a thin coat of glue or resin.
  • Painted wood slices and small tiles.

Small and round is easiest. Square corners are harder, so take extra care at each point.

How much resin to mix

Very little. Deby mixed about 10 ml for a coaster back and had some left over. A thin dome on a 4 inch piece needs less than you think, and a too-full pour is the main reason resin spills over. Measure by volume or weight as your resin kit says, and mix slowly for the full time. See how to mix epoxy resin if you are new to it.

Set up for a clean dome

Raise the piece on a cup or a block smaller than the piece, so any drip falls away instead of pooling under the edge. Check the surface is level; resin self-levels only on a level piece. Work in good light and look across the surface from the side so you can see exactly where the wet edge is. Wear gloves and work in a ventilated room.

Doming vs a flood coat

A flood coat is poured on a bigger flat piece, like a tray or a painting, and is allowed to run over the sides, often with tape underneath to catch the drips. Doming is for small pieces where you want a clean edge with no drips at all. It uses far less resin and leaves a rounded, lens-like top that makes colours look deeper. Doming resins and UV resins are thicker and hold a taller dome; a thin coating resin gives a flatter curve.

Troubleshooting

Resin ran over the edge. Wipe the drip off the side with a gloved finger and pull the edge back with the straw. Less resin next time.

Bare spots that will not fill. Grease from fingers stops resin sticking. Clean the surface with alcohol before you pour.

Tacky after a day. The mix was off. How to fix sticky resin covers the fix.

Bubbles in the cured dome. Pass a flame over it sooner, and keep the resin warm before mixing.

Want the coaster itself? Start with how to make resin coasters and how to use resin molds, then dome the back with this method.

What you'll need

Step-by-step guide

8 steps, about 8 minutes. Tap a picture to jump to that step. Your progress saves automatically.

Tick each step off as you go.

  1. Step 1: Find the Sharp Lip on the Back of the Resin Piece

    Watch this step · 0:26

    Turn your cured resin piece over and run a finger around the back edge. Resin curves up the side of a mold as it cures, so the edge is a little higher than the middle. That leaves a ridge that can feel sharp. On a coaster that will sit on a table, you want it gone. Doming a coat of resin over the back hides the ridge and makes the back glossy.

    Tip:

    A cork back would hide the ridge, but it also blocks any clear areas.

    Back to all steps

  2. Step 2: Sand the Resin Lip on Wet and Dry Sandpaper

    Watch this step · 2:10

    Lay a sheet of wet and dry sandpaper flat on the table. Put the coaster on it back side down and rub it around in circles for a couple of minutes. Deby used 220 grit. Lower numbers are coarser and faster; higher numbers are finer. You only need to take the sharp edge off, not the whole lip. A little water or soapy water on the paper keeps the dust down.

    Tip:

    Sand the back only. The front will scratch.

    Back to all steps

  3. Step 3: Clean the Resin Surface With Alcohol

    Watch this step · 3:26

    Rinse the coaster under the tap to wash away the sanding residue, then dry it. Wipe the back with a cloth dampened with alcohol. Grease from your fingers is enough to stop the new layer of resin from sticking, and you will get bare patches where it pulls away. From here, hold the piece by its edges and wear gloves.

    Tip:

    Let the alcohol dry fully before you pour.

    Back to all steps

  4. Step 4: Pour a Small Amount of Resin on the Flat Back

    Watch this step · 3:46

    Set the coaster on top of a cup that is smaller than the coaster, back side up. Mix a small batch of resin; about 10 ml covers a coaster back. Pour a little into the middle. Do not pour it all at once. Too much resin is the main reason a dome spills over the edge, and you can always add more.

    Tip:

    Check the piece is level before you pour.

    Back to all steps

  5. Step 5: Spread the Resin Across the Piece With a Straw

    Watch this step · 3:56

    Use a cocktail straw or a stir stick to push the resin out from the middle. Move it in small strokes toward the edges, working all the way around. A thin straw gives you good control over small amounts. Stop short of the edge for now. You want an even, thin layer across most of the surface before you go near the rim.

    Tip:

    Look across the surface from the side to see the wet edge.

    Back to all steps

  6. Step 6: Draw the Resin to the Edge to Form the Dome

    Watch this step · 4:50

    Now bring the resin right up to the rim, but not over it. Touch the straw to the wet edge and pull it out to the very edge of the piece, a little at a time, all the way around. If resin goes over at one spot, the rest can follow it down the side. At the edge, surface tension holds the resin up in a smooth dome.

    Tip:

    Any ridge left from sanding acts as a little dam for the resin.

    Back to all steps

  7. Step 7: Pop Bubbles in the Domed Resin With a Flame

    Watch this step · 5:58

    Light a barbecue lighter or a small torch and pass the flame quickly over the surface. The heat brings bubbles up and pops them. Keep it moving and only hold it there for a moment; too much heat can ripple the resin. Check again after a few minutes and repeat if more bubbles rise.

    Tip:

    Keep the flame away from the gloves and the alcohol bottle.

    Back to all steps

  8. Step 8: Cover the Resin and Let the Dome Cure

    Watch this step · 7:00

    Cover the piece so dust cannot settle on the wet resin, and leave it to cure for the time your resin kit gives, usually a day. Once it is cured, the back is as smooth and glossy as the front. Run a finger around the edge; the sharp ridge is gone. Now the coaster is fully reversible, with a finished domed surface on both sides.

    Tip:

    A plastic box turned upside down makes an easy dust cover.

    Back to all steps

Keep going

How to Make UV Resin Flower Earrings (DIY Tutorial)

Products Used

The Checklist

How to Dome Resin on a Flat Piece

Tools
6
Materials
3
Steps
8
Video
8 min

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