How to Sew a Zipper: 7 Steps (Two Methods)

Steps

1. 1. Pick the Right Zipper

   Color matches if you want the zipper to disappear into the fabric. Contrast colors if you want it to be a feature.

   

2. 2. Attach the Zipper Foot

   Most machines come with a zipper foot in the box - it's the narrow one that lets the needle sew right next to the teeth. The standard foot is too wide and would push the zipper away from the needle.

   

3. 3. Method 1 - Exposed Zipper for a Pouch

   Lay the zipper face-down on the right side of one fabric piece. Line up the long edge of the zipper tape with the cut edge of the fabric.

   Tip: Wonder clips beat pins for zippers - pins can bend the metal teeth and they're awkward to remove as you sew.

   

4. 4. Sew the Other Side

   Flip the zipper open and lay the second fabric piece right-sides-together with the zipper. Line up the edge the same way you did the first piece.

   

5. 5. Method 2 - Concealed Zipper in a Garment Seam

   For garments, you sew the seam closed first, then add the zipper on top. Sew the seam where the zipper will go using a long stitch length (around 5) so you can rip it out later.

   

6. 6. Sew a Rectangle Around the Zipper

   Flip the fabric over so the right side is facing up (the zipper is hidden underneath, pinned in place). Sew with the zipper foot in a rectangle around the zipper - down one side past the pull, pivot at the bottom, sew across, pivot, sew up the other side.

   

7. 7. Open the Seam to Reveal the Zipper

   Grab a seam ripper. Slide the point under a few stitches at a time on the original seam (the one you sewed in step 5 with the long stitch).

   Tip: Pull the seam ripper toward yourself rather than away - more control, less chance of slipping past the rectangle and ripping the wrong stitches.