How to Sew a French Seam

Steps

1. 1. Place the Fabric Wrong Sides Together for a French Seam

   This is the most important part, so go slow. With a normal seam you put the right sides of the fabric together.

   Tip: Practice on printed cotton first. The difference between the right and wrong side makes each stage easy to follow.

   

2. 2. Pin the French Seam Edges With Pin Heads Facing You

   Pin along the matched edges. Ana places her pins in line with the seam, with the heads facing toward her, so they slide out easily as she sews.

   Tip: Sew from the hem up on side seams so the hem stays even.

   

3. 3. Sew the First French Seam 3/8 Inch From the Raw Edge

   Take the fabric to the machine. Sew a straight stitch, 2.5 mm long, 3/8 inch (1 cm) from the raw edge.

   Tip: On silk, tie off the threads instead of backstitching, and test a smaller stitch on a scrap.

   

4. 4. Press the First Seam Flat, Then Press It Open

   Press the seam flat the way you sewed it. That sets the stitches into the fabric and takes out small puckers.

   Tip: Pressing at every stage is what makes a French seam look crisp. Do not skip it.

   

5. 5. Trim the French Seam Allowances Down to 1/8 Inch

   Pick up a small pair of sharp scissors. Trim both seam allowances down to 1/8 inch (3 mm).

   Tip: Small embroidery scissors give you more control than big shears on this close cut.

   

6. 6. Fold the Fabric Right Sides Together and Roll the Seam to the Edge

   Now fold the fabric the other way, with the right sides together and the wrong side facing up. The trimmed edges are now trapped inside the fold.

   Tip: If the stitching sits back from the edge, the finished seam ends up wider and lumpy.

   

7. 7. Press the Folded French Seam Edge Flat

   Press along the fold as you go, keeping the first seam right on the edge. Work your way down the length of the seam with the iron.

   Tip: A pressing ham helps when the seam has a gentle curve.

   

8. 8. Sew the Second French Seam 1/4 Inch From the Fold

   Back to the machine. Sew a standard straight stitch 1/4 inch (5 mm) from the pressed fold.

   Tip: A 1/4 inch presser foot or a strip of tape on the throat plate keeps the line steady.

   

9. 9. Press the Enclosed French Seam Allowance to One Side

   Trim the thread tails and press the seam flat as sewn. Then open the fabric with the wrong side up.

   Tip: On side seams, press the allowance toward the back of the garment.

   

10. 10. Check the Finished French Seam From the Right Side

    Turn the fabric over and look at the right side. It should look like a plain, crisp seam.

    Tip: Keep a finished sample by your machine as a reminder of the order: wrong sides first.